In this episode of the Intrinsic Value Podcast, hosts Sean O'Malley and Daniel Monka examine the current state of luxury fashion giants LVMH and Hermès. Trading near historical valuation lows following macro-related pullbacks, the hosts investigate whether these "fallen angels" present an attractive buying opportunity.
### State of the Luxury Market
The broader personal luxury goods market is valued at roughly $360 billion and has been shrinking by $5 to $6 billion per year since the end of 2023. A major factor is the pullback of "aspirational buyers"—consumers who rely on monthly paychecks and typically spend $1,500 to $5,000 annually. Between 2022 and 2025, the luxury industry lost about 70 million customers, dropping from 400 million to 330–340 million.
Aggressive price increases between 2019 and 2023—such as a Louis Vuitton bag jumping from $1,500 to $2,500—priced out many upper-middle-class aspirational shoppers. Meanwhile, high-net-worth individuals spending over 50,000 euros annually continue to drive steady demand, benefiting top-tier brands like Hermès and jewelry-focused groups like Richemont.
### Company Comparisons: LVMH vs. Hermès
* **LVMH:** As the world's largest luxury conglomerate, LVMH owns over 75 brands across five segments, heavily anchored by fashion and leather goods (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Celine, etc.). LVMH relies more heavily on aspirational buyers, making it more cyclical. It has experienced declining sales for two consecutive years, with Asia revenues down about 20% from their 2023 peak. Its wine and spirits division (Hennessy, Moet) also suffered from inventory gluts and declining US/Chinese cognac consumption.
* **Hermès:** Operating primarily as a single brand with a strict supply-limitation strategy, Hermès protects its prestigious bags (like the Birkin and Kelly) through a "gating" system that requires customers to build a purchase history with lower-tier items first. While Hermès has also faced slowing growth, it has avoided negative full-year sales growth outside the pandemic.
### Geographic Pressures: China and the Middle East
* **China:** Formerly the fastest-growing market, mainland China has slumped due to a prolonged real estate crisis where property values—the primary store of wealth—have fallen for four years. The middle class has reined in spending to pay down mortgages, while the ultra-rich face shifting political optics and public scrutiny.
* **Middle East:** Although accounting for a smaller share of the market (around 4% of Hermès sales and 9% for Richemont), regional uncertainty and disrupted tourism in hubs like Dubai have temporarily paused a key growth region that brands hoped would offset China.
* **United States:** The US market remains a bright spot, growing 15% for Hermès in the first half and backed by a strong stock market and AI-minted millionaires.
### Valuation and Investment Outlook
Daniel evaluates the companies using a hurdle rate of 12%:
* **Hermès:** Trading around 1,400 euros with a stable exit multiple of 32x, a base-case 7% to 8% revenue CAGR yields an expected annual return of roughly 12% to 13%.
* **LVMH:** Assuming 3% to 4% revenue growth and a multiple of 20x, LVMH's expected return comes to roughly 11%, falling slightly short of their hurdle rate.
Ultimately, neither host is ready to buy. While both acknowledge the enduring brand strength and pricing power of top-tier luxury, they prefer to wait for deeper capitulation, greater market fear, or more attractive entry multiples before investing in the sector.