I'm Chris Hollis, Director of Financial Communications at LVMH, and with me is Jean-Jacques Guigny, our Chief Financial Officer. Thank you for joining us for this webcast. We have some remarks to make about LVMH's revenue for the first quarter of 2023, and after these remarks, Jean-Jacques and I will be happy to take your questions. As a reminder, certain information to be discussed on today's call is forward-looking and its subject to important risks and uncertainties that could cause actual results to differ materially. For these, I refer you to the safe harbors statement included in our press release, and on slide two of our presentation.
Turning now to our announcement, hopefully you've all had the chance to read our release, which was issued a short while ago in both French and English, as always, the release is available on LVMH's website, www.lvmh.com, as are the slides that we are using to guide us today.
On slide three, you'll see the group is off to an excellent start to the year, with organic growth, up 17%, with, sorry, apologies for that, with in line with last year and against the backdrop of a challenging economic climate. All business groups recorded double digit organic growth, revenue growth with the exception of wines and spirits, which still delivered growth, most notably in the Champagnes and wines businesses I'll discuss in a few moments. On a geographic basis, the group delivered strong revenue growth in Europe and Japan. In the US, revenue was good, but softer, while in Asia, revenue growth is improving rapidly as pandemic restrictions have eased.
Looking at the business groups, we once again saw strong progress in fashion and leather goods driven by Louis Vuitton and Christian Dure, as well as Saline, L'Ove, Laura Piana, Rimoa and Balouti, reflecting the deep heritage, at each of these of the maize-alls on the innovation our teams have brought to them. The watches in Durey Business also continues to perform well, with particular strength at both Tiffany and Bulgari, reflecting a great deal of excitement and energy at both maize-alls. It is off to a good start in the Perfume St. Goss Mellix group, driven by both iconic products and well received launches in the Perfumes and Makeup businesses. And lastly, Sephora saw strong growth, while DFS is seeing gradual recovery with a growing return of international travel.
On slide four, you'll see that revenue growth rose to 21 billion euros compared to 18 billion in the year ago, first quarter, representing a 17% increase on both an organic and reported basis. Revenue continues to be well balanced on a geographic basis and in line with the breakdown in the year ago period. In the first quarter, 36% of revenue was generated in Asia, excluding Japan, which itself was a source of 7% of revenue. 23% of revenue came from the US, while Europe contributed 14% excluding France, which contributed to 7%. And 13% of sales come from other markets. Looking at the progression of organic revenue by region, which is now slide six, Europe and Japan remained strong with 24% and 34% increases respectively year over year. The US business had a more uneven performance due to the softer trend, I mentioned, but still delivered an 8% year over year gain. And finally, again, as I mentioned earlier, we are seeing a rapid improvement in revenue in Asia with a 14% increase in Q1 of this year compared to the year ago period, fueled by mainland China, Hong Kong and Macau.
Drilling down now on revenue by business group, we'll begin as always with the wines and spirits and on slide nine in the fourth quarter of 2023. Revenue in the wines and spirits business group reached 1.69 billion euros, a 3% increase on both an organic and reported basis from the 1.63 billion the first quarter of 2022. Breaking this down, organic revenue from the champagne and wines business increased by 14%. After taking into account a 2% negative currency impact and a 1% positive structural impact, relating essentially to the first consolidation of Joseph Phelps, reported revenue rose 13% to 796 million euros for the champagne and wines. Organic revenue from cognac and spirits was down 5%, and after taking into account the positive 1% currency impact was 899 million euros compared to the 932 million euros in the year ago quarter.
To provide the context of these figures, revenue gains in the champagne and wines business was driven by both positive price effects and continued growth in all regions. It was a busy period across the business with efforts designed to continue this strong momentum, including the launch of a new Lady Gaga campaign for Dom Péryneon, the start of construction of the new Nicolas Ruyinard Pavilion in its home of France, where this iconic champagne business was started nearly 300 years ago. It would include a visitor center, a showroom and a boutique. The continued international development of Chateau Disclant, the recent strategic partnership with famed Chateau Minouti, including the acquisition of a major stake, and Chandonne's new Garden Spritz, an exceptional mix of sparkling wine and a unique bitters recipe, being very well received, contributing to Chandonne's good performance. Final Q1 includes the first quarter of revenue from Joseph Phelps' vineyards, which has been consolidated in the group's results since December of last year. Sitting on to Conia Conspiritz, the softer economic environment in the US, and high inventory levels led to a decrease in volumes, we're seeing a gradual recovery in China as the effects of Covid subside. Within the business there was a good deal of excitement around the collaboration between Hennessy Exo and the dual men's and fendi artistic director Kim Jones featuring a collectible sneaker, a kutur de counter, and as you'll see on the right hand side, the right photograph on the side here at Conia C. In addition, a new Hennessy Exo-parody space was inaugurated at Class of 1810 in Paris and I courage you to visit. Finally in this group there was an ongoing solid revenue growth at both Belvedere Vodka and Glen Morangie Whiskies.
Now we'll take a look at the very strong first quarter for fashion and leather goods. On slide 12 you'll see the revenue in this business group rose 18% on an organic basis, including a small 1% negative currency impact reported revenue reached 10.7 billion euros compared to the 9.1 billion in the year ago first quarter. As due to rounding, the reported revenue also reflected an 18% increase. Growth in the fashion and leather goods business was broad based with strong performance across Maisons, again as always with the Evoconic Louis Vuitton where its ongoing growth is fueled by the exceptional creativity of Nicola Guesquière, who's chosen a continue to be extremely well received. The Maisons also made the very exciting announcement that Farrell Williams has joined as the new men's creative director and will show his first collection in June during Paris Men's Fashion Week. The highlights expect you've also noticed the immensely successful collaboration between Louis Vuitton and the incomparable Japanese artist, Yoyo Kazamaha and on the topic of art, if you're here in Paris and will come soon, I encourage you to visit Antasie LV Dream exhibition focused on the Maisons artistic collaborations over its 160 year history. Last year with respect to Louis Vuitton, the Maisons continues to expand its product offering across all categories.
And now moving on to Christian De Couture, the year is off to a very successful start on this Maisons as well with the ongoing strong growth of the Registerware collections from the exceptional designers, Mary Grazia Churri and Kim Jones. The Maisons led a spectacular show in Mumbai for its full 2023 collection as a tribute to Indian textile traditions and the art of embroidery. And the Maisons introduced the new Lady 9522 in honor of the initial introduction of this iconic bag in 1995 and the year of its reinterpretation.
Now, I'll go through some highlights at the other Maisons. Growth at Selene continues to be driven by the enduring strong appeal of Heidi Slamane's creations as well as the Maisons type control of both its image and distribution. At Louis Vuitton, Jay W. Anderson shows continue to generate excitement as Maisons' collaboration with Studio Ghibli and Louis Vuitton's new Passio bag is quite sought after. At Fendi, the Maisons continues to selectively expand its store network with its first flagship boutique opening in South Korea and its largest ever store in Japan in Tokyo at Amatisano. Oropiana has seen strong performance in its ready to wear and shoe collections and its new bail bag has been well received. Mark Jacobs is performing well with strong momentum in the US. Remoa entered into a new partnership with German Football Association, DFP, while Belluti successfully launched its golf capsule and introduced its new sort after the Renzo drive-lover.
We'll now turn to performance in the Perfume's and Cosmetics business group. Slide 15 you'll see a revenue in this division reached 2.1 billion euros in the first quarter of 2023, reflecting 10% organic growth and a 1% positive currency effect, that's growing 11% compared to the first quarter of last year. Overall, the Perfume's and Cosmetics division saw strong growth reflecting the ongoing success of the selective distribution policy across the Maisons. At Perfume Christian Dior, the Maison continued its momentum in key markets, particularly in the US and Europe. Sovage maintained its position as the leader in fragrances globally, while iconic Perfumes, Jadour and Mr Dior also enjoyed continued success. At collection privé, the beloved refined sense from Christian Dior welcomed new additions from Francis Codian on the make-up side, the new refillable lipstick, Dior addicts saw great success among customers, and the skincare lines prestige and capture total remain favourites in the premium skincare segment. Goura saw strong momentum from its sought-after Perfumes aqua, Alagoria and La et la matière and rolled out its new terracotta-letan liquid foundation in Europe. Other successful product launches this quarter included the new Givenchy Genicum and Society Perfume, as well as Benefit's new poor care collection, which is now available worldwide. Fresh continues the roll out of its new serum T-Alexia, which focuses on protecting the ski from the stresses.
现在我们转向香水和化妆品业务组的业绩。在第15页上,您将看到该部门在2023年第一季度的收入达到21亿欧元,反映出10%的有机增长和1%的正面货币影响,相比去年同期增长了11%。总体上,香水和化妆品部门实现了强劲的增长,反映出精选分销政策在各个品牌中的持续成功。在香水克里斯汀迪奥方面,这个品牌在关键市场,特别是美国和欧洲方面,保持了其发展势头。Sovage在全球香水市场的领导地位保持不变,同时标志性香水Jadour和Mr Dior也继续取得了成功。在私人香料系列方面,受人们喜爱的基督教迪奥的精致感受欢迎了来自Francis Codian的新品牌化妆品,新的可回收口红Dior addicts在客户中取得了巨大成功,而护肤品系列Prestige和Capture Total则成为高端护肤产品市场的客户喜爱。Goura的受欢迎的香水Aqua、Alagoria和La et la matière取得了强劲的发展势头,并在欧洲推出了其新的Terracotta-letan液态粉底。本季度其他成功的产品推出包括新的纪梵希Genicum和Society香水,以及Benefit新的护肤系列Poor Care,现已在全球上市。Fresh继续推出其新的精华液T-Alexia,重点保护皮肤不受压力的损害。
At Maison, Codian, the year started off quite well with solid performance in the US and the success of its new Perfume 724. Aqua Depama released a new Colonia Limited Edition designed by Samuel Ross and saw continued strength in its home collection. Officeean Universal buile benefited from last year's expansion of its store footprint in particular across Japan and Fenty Beauty progressed nicely along following Rihanna's performance at the Super Bowl, which she touched up, where she touched up her makeup, mid-act, bringing even greater visibility to the successful brand.
Now onto Watches and Joury. Slide 18. Revenue in Watches and Joury rose 2.6 billion euros in the first quarter of 2023 from 2.3 billion in the first quarter of last year. This translates to an 11% increase on both an organic and reported basis year over year. Joury made strong progress at the start of the year and Watches introduced exciting elevation for which our Maisons are known. To provide some highlights this year began well at Tiffany, with the international rollout of the lock collection and the great success of the iconic T-line, while high Joury enjoyed record performance. In Brickermutter the brand opened up a series of new concept stores and very excitingly announced the reopening of its famed Fifth Avenue landmark location in New York City, which is planned for late April. Bulgari also showed strong momentum in Q1. The Maisons beloved Sapenti line celebrated its 75th anniversary with an exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art Shanghai and the high Joury collection Eden, the Garden of Wonders, was highly successful. Now over to Watches, Takhojah celebrated the 60th anniversary of its Kerrera chronograph, while Hublot continued its partnership with Takahashi Murakami releasing a forced collaboration with the artist. This included the creation of 12 unique pieces, exclusively VLA, built to owners of an all-black and sapphire rainbow NFT. Shome launched the Echo Culture Awards program, which aims to support women who are committed to passing down culture that creates social links and diversifies audiences. And Fred created a new line of reversible, pretty woman bracelets featuring its signature heart within a heart in Carnedian stone, while Zenith released its pre-designed pilot collection at the Watches and Wonders event in Geneva.
We'll close out the business group review as we always do with selective retailing, organic revenue in selective retailing grew by 28%, compared to the year ago period, first quarter. After taking into account a 2% positive currency impact, reported revenue grew 30% to reach nearly 4 billion euros. Slide 22, you'll see some details.
Sep 4 is performance was very strong this quarter, while DFS benefited from a recovery in travel, especially in Asian markets. Sep 4 continued its excellent momentum with revenue and market share growth across North America, Europe and the Middle East, the stores or a recovery in traffic and good performances across all categories, especially makeup. Finally the first Sep 4 store in the UK, which opened in Q1 in Westfield, London, enjoyed an excellent start.
As we said, revenue at DFS rebounded after re-opening of the China borders, though it still remains below 2019 levels. There was a progressive return of tourists to Hong Kong and Macau, and the first concession opened in China in John Quing, Jim By, Airport.
Last year the Bon Martier continued its creative animations with the exhibit sangum by Subod Gupta, the sketch aquarium and the immersive theatre, Albonnale did them. These are the latest in the store's tradition of featuring major contemporary artists to delight visitors.
So in summary, this first quarter set a strong foundation for the group to take advantage of a gradual return of travel while continuing to stay vigilant in the face of macroeconomic and geopolitical uncertainties. A business group so contributed to revenue growth in Q1, marking a strong start to the year and positioning as well to continue gaining market share.
Our online and omnichannel developments continue their strong momentum, focused on delivering exceptional experiences. And taken together, these strengths reflect our mazes on going focus on offering innovative and high quality products to our customers, a continued selective approach to investments in particular in expanding store networks, as well as overall cost management and agility. Our first quarter revenue reflect our continued leadership in the luxury goods sector, and we're excited for the rest of the year ahead.
And with that, thank you. We will have, take any questions you might have. Now Rudolf will announce the name of the participant invited to ask a question. Thank you Chris. We now start the question in session. As usual, if you want to ask a question, please use the raise hand function of your application.
And the first question comes from Louis Singhalest from Goldman Sachs. I can't hear you. Mike Ferney still switched off. I've been on YouTube. Thank you so much. And thank you for taking the question. I wonder, I know there's going to be lots of questions by region, but I wondered if I could ask a broader question, please, Sean Jack, in terms of really the store densities across LV. It's incredible in terms of the growth that we've seen, certainly over the past two or three years, but I wondered if you could help us understand what's happening with the store densities and also where you see probably the most constraints, but also the most opportunities.
I presume there's lots to go, obviously, with the reopening of China. And then secondly, I wondered on following on from that, if we look at the components of growth, is it fair to assume a little bit more is coming from price mix in the equation if we think about pricing and volume going forward? And is that sustainable? Is that becoming a little bit more of the overall growth driver going forward? Thank you.
Thank you, Louise. So your question on store density, you're absolutely right. I mean, we've been increasing the business, particularly Advitone in a fairly large way over the past three years without really increasing the number of square meters. So store density, I mean, sales density has improved quite significantly. The largest improvement was in China where we had the largest store and the lowest sales density prior to the pandemic. So in some way, I mean, it happened in the right place as we were able to absorb a much higher level of sales without having to invest heavily into stores.
We are talking now about the mainlanders traveling again. Certainly they will start, as we see with Macau, Hong Kong and the neighboring countries, such as Korea and probably Japan in the near future. We have no particular worries as to our ability to absorb this additional business in those countries, particularly with regards to Hong Kong and Macau, which have been under severe pressure over the past few years. Korea will be maybe a bit more complicated but will manage. So we are not particularly worried.
The influx of mainlanders into Europe is probably a little bit far-fetched. As we speak, we see some additional clients from mainland China today in Europe. Most of them are not group-based. They are mostly individual travelers and they are pretty easy to absorb in our existing network. So this is not something we worry too much about for the next quarters, maybe in two three of the time we'll have to take decisions, which obviously we will anticipate, but short term we are not particularly worried.
With regards to the composition of growth, I assume that your question was about Vietnam. Well, we don't get into many details as our competitors don't, so it's reasonably sensitive in terms of information. What I would say is that the price component is not much, much bigger than what it used to be in 2022 and 2021. There is some price component, obviously, as we passed on some pricing increases last year progressively, but the bulk of the growth, the majority of the growth still comes from mix as we've been doing over the last 15 years. Let's put it that way. And a little bit of volume growth as well that help deliver some numbers that we don't disclose, but as I always say, never very far from the division's average.
The next question comes from Antoine Bell from BNPV. Exhan. Yes, hello, can you hear me? Yes. Good evening, to all of you. So three questions. First of all, since we were on the topic of China, specifically for fashion and leather, is it possible to maybe quantify the growth, maybe around 20 percent? On the show, how has been the facing your months after months, not so much just on the trends, but maybe more the behavior of the Chinese consumer within the quarter. And number two is about the US in the press release and on the show quiz, prepared remark. It seemed that you are talking about the normalization in US, but if the numbers are correct, 8 percent seems to be actually a bit better than in Q4, at least at the group level. So specifically on fashion and leather, have you seen any normalization as they call it? And point number three is actually more on Konyak. I think is it possible to have a sense of what's happening in the US market? And to understand maybe the consumer buying 37 dollar Konyak is a bit less resilient, but also we've heard about maybe a shift into Tequila. Is it something that you've noticed too? And with regards to the Chinese situation, maybe is it more just a little bit more? The destocking by one quarter, since I guess the end demand must have picked up there. Thank you.
Thank you, Antoine, for your three questions. The first question on China, you know that we don't disclose specific numbers for mainland China. The growth for fashion and leather was double digit in the first quarter, sorry, of the year. We'll not really answer into details on the sequence, January, February, March. Not that easy to read, as always, with Chinese New Year, not always being at the same time in the year. But all in all, I mean, we register some pretty nice pick up in China, which both were for the rest of the year. We definitely see a normalization of this market with people returning to our stores, with the Internet business picking up. So we are really back to where we were prior to the complicated period of 2022. So we are extremely hopeful and should benefit from a strong push from mainland China in 2023, certainly in fashion and leather, but probably as well in jewelry. Some other categories will take a little bit of time to recover, because Malik remains a little bit under pressure in mainland China. I'll discuss later on Konyak, as you have a specific question on that. But overall, we are extremely optimistic and we think that the numbers that we have seen in Q1 boats were for the rest of the year.
This regards to the US, you are absolutely right. I mean, we have 8% growth, which is more or less in line with what we had in Q4. Q4 was 7%. So it's roughly the same numbers. A significant part of this growth comes from the selective distribution business, namely Sephora, which is doing extremely well for the rest. We have the business is slowing down a little bit, slowing down due to a bigger and bigger share of the business taking place outside the US, but also due to the fact that local business seems to be slowing down. So nothing to write home about, but nevertheless what we've seen in both jewelry and in fashion and leather is a little bit of a slowdown throughout the quota. It's difficult to draw any perspective for the rest of the year. We don't really know what will happen. For the time being, it's perfectly manageable and we still keep a good level of business. The cosmetic business is doing well. The champagne business is doing all right, but the Konyak business is under a little bit of fresh and that leads me to your third question on to one.
So if I try to summarize a little bit the situation with Konyak, in the US we definitely have a severe slowdown in demand. It's been going on for quite a while. We have inventories with our distributors at their maximum level, so we cannot offset slowdown in end demand with picking up the level of stocks. So obviously we are suffering a little bit there. We know that the Konyak market is sickly called in the US. It's not the first time we see that. Obviously when the business goes down, everybody asks about substitution products is the mood for Brown spirit over and people turning towards other things. It happened before. We've heard about vodka and outstakeela. I've seen that many times. I'm not worried at all. I mean, Hennessey remains, if not the first, probably amongst the most premium brands in the United States. And we are absolutely confident that they will recover when the demand picks up again. So we are not worried at all.
The situation in China is at the same time worse in terms of numbers. But probably we will not last very long. Due to the situation of the market at the time of Chinese New Year, we had loaded a little bit of our clients ahead of Chinese New Year, which basically didn't happen. And it's a large part of the business altogether in China. And there was a little bit of selling and no sell out at all during Chinese New Year. So obviously we have access inventories that we have to absorb. It will take three or four months, I think. And after that, it will benefit from demand already picking up. But we don't see that. I mean, sell out is picking up. But we won't see that into selling before either it says three or four months.
The next question comes from Edor Bant from Morgan Stanley. Edor? Yeah. Hi, Jean-Jacques. Hi, Chris. And Rodolf. So just sorry to follow up on China, Jean-Jacques, based on consumer reports and press reports, it looks like the consumer spending in China seems to have been a little bit weaker than expected. The rebound seems to have been a little bit weaker than anticipated by the market. It doesn't seem to be the case clearly with luxury looking at the numbers you've just reported. Do you have a view as to why there is a divergence which seems to be continuing between the outperformance of luxury, just flag cosmetics, maybe not rebounding as well, so it would be curious to have your view on that. The second thing is if you look at the fashion leather goods division, in the past you've told us that Vito was a bit below, you're always a bit above the division's average. So if you could comment, because you talk about an excellent performance at Vito in Q1, so just wanted to have a bit of a clarification on that. And then lastly, during the last call you indicated that you had maybe a bit over-invested in the fashion leather goods in terms of NP and you anticipated a moderation of spend. So did you achieve these good figures in Q1 with A and P spend moderating on that? Thank you.
Thank you, Duan. Well, as far as the consumer spending in China is concerned, I find it hard to discuss outside luxury. What we see in luxury sounds as a pretty solid rebound, and if we look over two years, the growth for fashion leather in Q1 is above 20%. So that's really a good sign of what's going on. And as I said, I mean, we are extremely optimistic for the rest of the year. We are not talking about frantic or excess optimism and growth in China. We are talking about normalization at a fairly high level. Why is it better than other consumer sectors? Frankly, I'm not in a position to comment. I can just testify what we do. And frankly, it's doing well without excess. So we are pretty confident, as I said.
Your question about the growth of the various components of our fashion and leather division? Well, it's exactly as usual, a little bit below, but really a notch below. You're a bit above. And the others a little bit in different places, but not so far from the average. So we have a sort of tier group, around the 18% organic growth number that we released. With regards to ENP, our policy not to answer questions on PNL when we discuss revenues. So you'll see that when we discuss full first half performance at the end of July.
Thank you for taking my questions. I have free. So the first one will be a little bit boring, but would you be able to maybe discuss the performance for fashion leather goods or if you don't, whatever is easier by nationality? And specifically, I think last quarter, you mentioned that the American cluster was still growing double digit globally. So it would be interesting to hear specifically how the American cluster has performed in Q1.
Secondly, on watches and jewelry. Would you be able to maybe comment specifically how jewelry has grown versus watches? I think you mentioned in your remarks that you were very positive on jewelry and you didn't mention what you saw. I'm just curious if you're seeing maybe the watch market pulling down or is it specific to China because of the business being more wholesale driven. So any comments on that would be interesting.
And finally, I think you're reopening now and in Q2, the flagship landmark boutique for Tiffany. Would you be able to remind us what percentage of sales it contributed to the brand globally? I think if I remember correctly, it was quite meaningful. So it would be just interesting to know how much help we could get from that in the coming quarters. Thank you.
So a fashion letter by Nationalities. Obviously, China leads the charge with a very high number for most brands. In most cases, exceeding 30%. With a comparison base, which is muted, pretty tough in the first part of the quarter, much easier after the 15th of March. And for what is worse, we have pretty high numbers there, which are exceeding the growth we have in China due to the fact that the offshore business with tourist business is growing faster than the domestic one, but both of them are growing very significantly. As far as America is concerned, this is why I mentioned slow down. We have all together the American cluster is flatish, unlike what it was in Q4, even taking into account the business we do in Europe, which is quite significant now. With Europeans, we have mixed numbers, but most of the nationalities in Europe are growing double digit, mostly the French, the Brit and the Italians. So we cannot complain about the business we do in Europe, as we can see from the very strong numbers that we have posted for Europe as a whole.
Your second question is about watches and jewelry and commenting a bit of the situation in watches. In our numbers, we reported jewelry is doing a bit better than watches. Reading the watch market is not as easy as reading the jewelry market. jewelry is retail, so we know almost live what's going on. Jewries, watches are obviously more complicated to read. As far as we are concerned, you know that China is not a big market for us, so what we observe in China is not necessarily relevant or necessarily a good proxy for the rest of the industry, but only null. I mean, it's a bit contrasted, but we have high single digit numbers in most of our jewelry brands, so we are pretty satisfied with the business in Q1.
Finally, Tiffany and the flagship, I think it's a number that the previous management used to give if I remember correctly if it was around 400 million or something like that, so close to 10% of sales. Don't get carried away. I mean, I don't think we will increase the business by 10% just by clicking our fingers and re-opening the store on 5th Avenue, but this being said, it should have a positive impact, not only in terms of numbers, it should add up because this store will be absolutely stunning and will add up to the business as it should and will have a good price. A much larger contribution than the temporary store that we've been operating for the last three years, but it's also very important in terms of marketing and branding because it's a testimony of what we are doing with the brand. It's probably the most emblematic luxury store in the world. I don't have to remind you all the story around this store, so obviously we did things according to the status of the store and we expect to see you at some point there and hopefully you'll be stunned as well as we are. Thank you.
The next question comes from Erwan Hombu from HSPC. Yeah, good evening, gentlemen. Can't wait to see that store. Three may be follow ups, first of all, on Chinese consumption. You're basically mentioning, I believe, that offshore spending, so outside of mainland China is at performing onshore spending. Do you think that will go on this year and to your previous comment about the capacity that your stores have to welcome more people? Will you not reach a point of tension? I'm thinking Hong Kong, Macau, particularly Thailand. More there, areas in the world where you're a bit underdeveloped in terms of store units.
Secondly, if we look at price arbitrage, I don't know if you can give us an idea of where you believe you stand on average in terms of pricing in Shanghai relative to continental Europe. But I think you rightly said, Jean-Jacques O'Wallagot, that what effects can do it can undo and it's undone quite a bit. We've gone from a euro dollar at 0.95 to 1.10 today. But despite that, I suspect the gap is still pretty wide. Do you need to address it? Are you comfortable with the gap and how can you address it potentially without alienating the local European consumer?
Thirdly, and lastly, I'm just wondering if you could share priorities for beauty, for fragrance and cosmetics. You made a very high profile hire from Lurea about a year ago who was running hospitality. Now he's also running beauty. Given the high profile of the individual, I'm wondering if you will just use him to shake up the existing portfolio. If you have views on optimization or M&A or dreams of maybe a bigger contribution from that part of the business, thank you so much. Thank you, everyone.
Maybe I was not too clear on the first point, which is unsure of sure with mainlanders. What is, of sure, is growing faster than unsure, but in terms of contribution, I mean, it's 1 to 4, 1 to 5. I mean, roughly speaking, the offshore business last year was about 15% of the global mainlanders cluster, and it's now 20%. So it grows out of fast rate. This being said, in terms of contribution, it has nothing to do with the type of growth we get with the mainlanders inside mainland China. So your question is about areas where we could feel underdeveloped or we would need to add up some existing capacity. But first of all, that's a good problem to have, and that's a problem we've been dealing with for the last 25 years. So we know how to do that. You mentioned Thailand, probably not. I mean, we have had an ancient and pretty significant presence in Thailand, and particularly in Bangkok over the last years. Vietong, for instance, I think four stores in three or four stores in Bangkok, most of them being pretty, pretty large. So they can accommodate a larger amount of touristy flows. So we are not too worried. It's not something that we expect to be too disruptive whether in Thailand or elsewhere. And we are pretty relaxed with this issue.
Obviously, if there are pockets of areas where we feel constrained, we'll mention that in the future, but I don't think it will happen too much. Because it's regards to currency gaps and whether there is need for action, as you said, I mean, currencies can undo what happened. And we've seen particularly with regards to China, the price premium of mainland China products compared to Europe has been reduced in a significant way over the last few quarters, I would say. And it's now at a point where it's not a big issue. Obviously, we have a little bit of a question mark with Hong Kong. Hong Kong is gaining an importance as the mainlanders start to travel again. The Hong Kong dollar being paid with a US dollar and the US dollar being stronger against the Reming Bee. This makes the price gap between the two areas a little bit less interesting than it used to be. What happens there? Well, we'll have the same question with regards to Japan as well. But for the time being, I mean, we don't intend to take particular action around that. I mean, the flows even in Asia today are still starting and we want to wait and see before we decide what to do about it.
The other question about beauty is the nomination of Stefan announcing a big shake-up in the division. Well, maybe, maybe not. In any way, it's hard to comment that type of thing in earnings and revenue call. With regards to portfolio, we are pretty satisfied with the portfolio we have. Our strategy is usually to make the best of our brands and not get rid of them and by some others. We have a great portfolio. Some brands are doing well. Some brands have been suffering a bit in the pandemic and they need to recover. We are working on that and that's priority number one, two and three for Stefan in the next few quarters.
The next question comes from Ashley Wadas from Bokav America. Thank you very much, Chris. Good evening to all I can, Chris. I have three questions please. My first one is just around one of the hot topics on social media at the moment, which is around this idea of quiet luxury.
I was wondering how you think this trend will impact your fashion and let the brand. My second question is on personal. Ashley, I missed your first question. What is the hot topic? Quiet luxury.
Basically, this undisquiet. Basically, this idea of understated, no longer go luxury. Something that has become quite popular in the last couple of weeks in social media. So, potentially playing out in terms of brand momentum. The second question I have is on the Peckman Cosmetics division.
I was just wondering how much of the 10% growth in Q1 was driven by the strong rebound in Asia travel retail and high-nan specifically. I guess my understanding was that there was still somewhat high level of infantry in the channel in beauty and at the time of the restocking would be more Q2.
So, my question really is, like, did you benefit in Q1 already from this or is it something that's still to come? And then the third question is on selective retailing, given the very strong top-line momentum, which is benefiting from the return of Asia travel retail.
How do we think about the margin of distribution in 2023, especially in light of DFS, which you cannot mistaken, was lost making last year? Thank you, Ashley.
Quiet luxury. So, a new name for something that we have heard already a few times in the past. 15 years ago, the logo or even the signature of handbags was dead. People were just looking for bags that were unsigned and on logo, you know what happened afterwards. So, it needs less to say that this is not the trend that we've seen in the following 15 years.
So, it comes and goes. I mean, that's the kind of thing we get from time to time. Well, if people want quiet luxury products, they are some brands within the group or even some items that we sell that are much more discreet in terms of signatures than others. So, we try to accommodate the taste of all our customers. And frankly, we think that's fine.
I mean, if customers want unsigned products, they should get them. If they want signed products, and frankly, it's a vast majority. That's fine as well. So, we don't know whether this will be a trend or not in the coming quarters, but in an event, we are ready to offer them to offer clients product that will suit their needs.
As far as perfuming cosmetics concern and your question about Asia, Asia, travel retail, in the bulk of the growth, more than the bulk of the growth, actually more than 100% of the growth we get comes from mostly Europe and the US.
In Asia, including travel retail, we have not rebounded yet. As you know, we commented that many times. We have a fairly restrictive attitude vis-à-vis Asian travel retail. There is nothing wrong with Asian travel retail as long as the clients are real clients and not they do. And the bulk of the Asian travel retail, even today, and particularly in Haenang that you alluded to, remains daigo.
So, we are extremely cautious. We think this parallel business could destroy any brand in the long run, and we are extremely conscious to avoid this type of business. So no such thing as rebound in Asia, in Asian travel retail so far.
Selectivity distribution margins. But the main impact in 2023 should be that the FES is returning to breakeven. We had a really difficult year last year with Hong Kong being on a standstill and Macau being closed almost from June onwards.
So half of the year. So, it was a terrible year for the FES. As a tribute to the quality of the management, they took this as an opportunity to reduce the cost base. So, they were lost making last year, but they limited the loss as much as they could in a very efficient way.
Obviously, they will benefit from that this year and we expect them to recover to breakeven, maybe a bit more. But I mean, breakeven would already be a fantastic achievement for the management team. The next question comes from Tomasz Reff from City. Good afternoon.
Thanks for taking my questions. I have three. Please, the first one on pricing, Jean Jacques back in January around the full your results. I recall you said in a media interview that the industry perhaps needed to mark a pose in terms of pricing, you perhaps comment on what does that mean for Vitton-Geor and your key brand this year, particularly as you passed on some prices in the first quarter and any idea of how much you think the industry can pass on pricing for the rest of the year. If any.
Secondly, coming back to the US growth at PLUS 8 and the components of that growth, if I'm just to correct the American cluster for the fashion leather was flat, you experienced a severe slowdown in cognac. So what drove the PLUS 8 is that the other three divisions by difference. So I guess perfumes, watches, jewelry and so on. And finally, Japan had an extraordinary growth in Q1. We know it's still a very important market for this industry. It's been historically steady but also volatile. Do you feel this is a shift in consumer behavior in Japan in the economy outlook or are you seeing just a massive influx of Korean tourists? Can you explain about what you see in Japan at the moment? Thank you.
Thank you, Toma. So on pricing, what I meant when we discussed that already in the end of last year is that after a general price increase in 2022, I mean, it was difficult to conceive that we would do it again with the same magnitude in 2023, which is probably not going to happen. It doesn't mean that from time to time, there could be some tactical price increases. We discussed a little bit price gaps due to currencies. It is something that could happen, but global and significant price increases. I don't think so. So I don't command future price increases. I just give you the global philosophy, but it doesn't change.
I mean, we think that we have done what we had to do last year to reflect inflation and repressure in most of our product lines. It will be more cautious when it comes to price increases and it will be done mostly on a tactical basis rather than on a global basis to reflect inflation pressure. Your second question about the US, to be frank, you made the answer yourself.
I mean, it doesn't come from cognac or from fashion leather. So it comes mostly from the other divisions, C4 did well and the perfect cosmetic did well too. So we are pretty happy with that and this enables us to show a number which is pretty close to what it was in Q4. And Japan, well, that's an interesting question. The answer is less easy to be frank. What we see in Japan is two things. A little bit of growth coming from tourists which is quite new. We've seen that a little bit at the end of last year, but compared to Q1 last year, it's quite new.
So it has a little bit of contribution, but we are talking about a growth of 34% in Q1. So it's not the only explanation and the other explanation is a domestic customer which is who is still doing, shopping a lot and generating a significant growth. It's always difficult to provide.
We have a, it seems to be that the Japanese customer, a consumer, is very confident about the economy, about the global situation, about inflation as inflation strikes way less in Japan than it does elsewhere and is therefore pretty confident and buying and is active in terms of shopping. I'm conscious that this is not a very deep and thorough explanation, but that's all we can give you at this point in time. And as I sometimes say, I'd rather have good numbers that I cannot really explain than the other way around. So we really enjoy these exceptional numbers which are great tribute to the quality of the business that our people are doing in Japan.
The next question comes from Oribachin from Cohen. Hi, John, Jack and Chris, great results. On China specifically, what do you see happening with Hainan as well as your thoughts more generally with the rebound on inventory positioning and how you're positioning by region and this volatile atmosphere? Second question on the Louis Vuitton brand, Farah Williams was an exciting announcement, would love your thoughts more generally on key priorities and what you see happening, perhaps with mix or the cultural movements in the brand. You've been very innovative and then third on Tiffany.
So bridal industry wide has been facing a tough comparison. It's negative. I was wondering on Tiffany, how are you balancing margin expansion relative to revenue growth and also the locks gotten a lot of attention just what does that mean in terms of how you're thinking about the brand and the generation Z appeal. I'm wearing the Tiffany Nike stuff too. So love what you're doing there. And lastly, you touched on this a lot, but the US trends and your expression of softer, you extrapolating that you expect it to turn negative and or continue to be a fairly volatile. We are seeing a pretty promotional luxury environment with an aspirational customer that's under pressure. Thanks a lot.
Thank you, Oliver. So your first question is about Hainan and how we feel about it and what could happen there. Well, we can only listen to what is being announced. We understand that there will be two phases in Hainan. The first one is the one we are in. We only do three concessions, six of them, if I'm not mistaken, that currently mostly concentrate on performance cosmetic spirits and tobacco.
This business is mostly dominated by China, the three goods corporation and other operators. It's an important business for some cosmetic brands. We are extremely cautious with regards to this business due to the Daigo phenomenon that I discussed a little bit before. That's all we have to say about this phase.
The second phase, which is supposed to come in a few years, will be a tax-free country. It's not a country, it's a region, but a tax-free region comparable maybe to Hong Kong, whether we've been not such a thing as taxes, which obviously will level the playing field. There are a lot of shopping mall projects and a lot of things are currently being under construction. We understand that the travel flow into Hainan is about 40, 50 million a year, so it's significant and that the market could become very significant.
We definitely look at the market for the second phase, not for what the market is today, because we are not so much interested in being into this Daigo frenzy. The second phase of the market, we should see this market becoming a normal market, I would say, particularly exciting because there will be price difference with China and we will be there, but we will be there in a normal way. We'll have our stores, we'll have our people who will decide upon our assortment and prices. It's at the same time a little bit far-fetched because it doesn't happen tomorrow, but it's something that could be extremely interesting in the medium term. LV? Oh, far-fetched mediums, yeah.
What are the key priorities for LV? I think the nomination of Farrell is actually telling you something about the blurring of boundaries between distribution, marketing and product strategies. Each strategy we design at Adviton and elsewhere, I mean, this is true for most of our brands. There is no such thing now as a pure product, pure distribution or pure marketing strategy. The three of them mix and obviously Farrell has been nominated to spare head this effort of being global and there will be some marketing component in the creation. There will be some distribution component in the product strategies and we try to mix all that.
So the marketing effort and the branding effort that we are developing at Adviton and elsewhere is much more global and then come past the various areas of the marketing mix. This is the priority to promote the brand to enhance the branding of Adviton and the other brands through appropriate marketing, distribution and product strategies, the three being quite entrenched.
Your question about Tiffany and I think it was about bridal, right? And the competition about bridal, am I right? Expansion component. Oh, yeah. So the question about margin expansion and revenue, in my view, is not the right way to really set it. Basically what happens in luxury is that we design strategies that will boost revenues. For a while, the margin don't move and when revenues start to develop, we get a boost in margins. We've seen that at Bulgaria, we've seen that at Vitton and Dior, look at Dior, I mean, for decades, the margins of Dior were pretty like cluster and with the development of the brand in the last six, seven years, we've seen an explosion of the margins. So hopefully the same will happen at Tiffany, will develop the revenue through product innovations, through store expansion and renovation and at some point the strategy will kick in in terms of margins and will see margin improvement. It's exactly what happened at Bulgaria and we try to replicate exactly the same thing at Tiffany.
Well, with regards to the US trend for the future, I mean, as you know, our visibility and our businesses as good as yesterday's sale. So it's always very difficult to assess what's going on. So what we try to do is to be as transparent as possible on what happened so far, what will happen next. Everybody, as you fully remember in September, everybody was expecting 2023 to be horrendous year for luxury in the US. It doesn't happen. It's not as good as it used to be, but how come could it stay that 20% growth per annum? So it's normalizing, but it's not bad either. So it's very difficult to make any prediction. Interest rates are rising in the US. Maybe taking its toll on consumer spending, difficult to say. Interest rates rise will probably come to an end if I read it. The market is correctly sometimes in the rest of the year. It may have a positive impact, nobody knows. So frankly, I find it extremely difficult to answer your question.
And the next question comes from Rogerio Jimori from Stiffel. Hi, Jean-Jacques. Hi, Jean-Jacques. And I have two questions. I have one follow up on jewelry, one about Korea, and one about perfumes and cosmetics.
So on jewelry, I think in the presentation, you flag the high end jewelry as a bright spot and exceptional quarter for both Tiffany and Boogers. So anything to call out in terms of performance for B-Jew at Tiffany in the US and the core collections for Booger and Tiffany across the main clusters, the US, Chinese, and European.
My second question about Korean clusters is that it has become obviously relatively large for the industry in the last three years when you thought on what's going on in Korea and Koreans buying abroad. And then the third on perfumes and cosmetics is just a follow up on category trends. I think on your comments about Sephora, you mentioned that makeup is standing out. So any change in terms of fragrance versus makeup versus skincare.
So your first question on high jewelry. I must say that Q1 is not the biggest quarter for high jewelry. It's a fairly seasonal business. So high jewelry is doing all right in the first quarter of the year, but it's not a big contributor. So I find it hard to comment further. Q2 is much more relevant, a quarter with a lot of events, taking place around the world. But as far as we can see, so far this year, the positive trend that we have experienced both at Bulgaria and Tiffany doesn't seem to be getting any worse. So it should remain a view, a key contributor to the growth of the business going forward.
Korea, you said it. I mean, it's becoming an important market. It's at the same time hub for some Chinese tourists. It's a big market in itself. And we have Koreans shopping abroad. So it's one of the most complex markets in the world in this respect, as we have to accommodate the three dimensions of this market. It's been going well through the pandemic, less volatile than the Chinese market for instance. We'll have to control Daegu because we know that there is a tendency for Daegu's to shop in Korea, which is closer to home than some other markets. This can be done with pricing, as we discussed a little bit before. We'll see how the market develops in coming quarters. But for the time being, we are pretty satisfied with the Korean market, with the business we do, with the locals, the business we do, with the Korean tourists. And we manage to control the Daegu business in a fairly correct way.
Puffing cosmetics and the category, yes, makeup is doing well, but fragrance is doing even better. And the skincare business is flatish. So the bulk of the growth comes from fragrance and makeup. This has been going on for a while. I mean, probably due to the fact that we have less growth in Asia, particularly China and Asian travel retail than we have elsewhere. And the bulk of the growth coming from Europe and the US, this creates some bias toward in favor of fragrances and makeup.
We have a question from Lucas Alcar from Bernstein. Yes, good evening. Maybe a slightly different question on I wear. You've been in housing I wear for a few years. Understand that there was an element of experimentation in this decision. I wonder looking back, what do you think about this is gone and how important you believe that this category could become for the group if it's going to be material or not.
A second question on capacity and inventory availability, especially looking at leather goods. I understand you've been overseeing a very important growth in the most recent 30 years or so. But I seem to remember that one of your smaller competitors in Paris provides a number about capacity growth each year. And you're increasing capacity as you face various strong growth from consumer demand as the numbers in the first quarter testify.
Thirdly, we understand that demand in the US is showing a clear trend with lower-end products at NEC having an issue and at the same time Sephora doing very well indeed. I wonder if you look at NEC and the most recent hiccups we've seen there, for example, inventory availability issue or the price increase decision. Last year, how much of the current performance, which is slightly disappointing, has been self-inflicted and how much of it depends on the market. And are you confident that any issues in decision making and in the company are now streamlined and on the good track? Thank you.
So your first question, and I, where we internalized I wear for progressively for some brands, mostly Fendi and Dior to start with. And I must say that with regards to these two brands, the results are quite interesting and very positive. In many ways, first of all, in terms of quality, we have improved the average quality of our products, which is always something very important to do. So we are very pleased with that.
In terms of distribution, we control much more and much better. Who do we sell our products through? Most of our, most of I wear is sold through certain distributors. And we don't want to end up with 20,000 doors and finding Dior, I wear everywhere in the world. This has to be controlled. And obviously, we do it in a much better way through our own organization. And certainly, they are important, incorporated marketing budget into the I wear PNL that positively contributes to the global marketing effort of the brand. And the fact that we control this budget ourselves and able us, obviously, to direct them and to control them in a much better way. And this happens to be a profitable business.
Obviously, the start in 2019 and 2020 was a little bit lost making as it is normal for any startup when integrating a business. But now we are turning a very nice profitability. So we will move on and we will continue to integrate one after the other all our brands. So probably remove the remaining licenses and develop from there. We have a strong base.
The only constraint that we have is to find land, to build factories and to find people to work in there. Otherwise, I mean, from a pure product and management viewpoint, we have a great team. And they have really given us the proof that they can develop the business much further. And we will try to do so.
On capacity, well, the capacity question is something that is being raised from time to time. The last time was probably 2015 when we had a little bit of shortages in terms of capacity. That's not the case now. We can accommodate the current growth, which, as I said, is mostly mixed based, which is less of an issue from a capacity viewpoint than volume based growth, as I explained many times. So we can accommodate the current growth without having to make very significant and urgent investment.
And if we have to make it, and certainly at some point we'll have to make it, we'll plan them in advance and we'll do them. And we've always done, I mean, there is always the ability to enlarge existing atelier to double the size of an existing atelier. When we buy a land to build an atelier, we always think about making a second one at the same place. So there are a large number of solutions that we can develop to accommodate the good problem of excess demand that we may be couldn't meet without further investment. So we'll do it. I think it's a good problem to have and we've handled that many times in the past and I'm not worried about that.
Your third question about Hennessey and Price elasticity is a very valid one. We had a lot of, as I said before, a lot of inflationary pressure at Hennessey in particular due to the price of glass, energy, et cetera. And we had to pass on very serious price increases last year, which were probably a bit difficult to absorb by some clients, hence a little bit of negative reaction on volumes. That's your right. I mean, that probably happened and it takes a bit of time to be swallowed.
And that's why we are extremely cautious when it comes to further price increase. VS in the US will not be subject to any price increase this year and it's certainly the right thing to do. At the same time, we also have to invest behind the brand in terms of marketing. There is always a tendency when you have high demand and shortage in availability of product as it happened in the second half of 2020 and 2021 to reduce marketing budget, not only our marketing budget, but our distributors' marketing budget. They are not going to invest behind the brand when they know that they will be selling the bottles anyway.
So after a while, this is a tendency of putting the brands behind some others that are more active in terms of marketing. So we are very conscious of that and we shall be investing behind the brand much more because it needs to be done. So again, I'm not worried at all where the US situation for HNC, which is the largest spirit brand by value in the world and we are very confident that the brand will continue to be extremely performing well and be profitable.
There are a few issues to be fixed in the US and time will enable us to absorb the price increase and at the same time will be investing into marketing and everything should get better within some quarters. We will not have a great year in 2023. It will take me wrong. It takes a little bit of time to do that but I'm very confident that the HNC team will be able to manage that.
When it's getting late, we have three remaining questions. I suppose all the important ones have been asked at this stage but maybe we can take these last three questions if you limit yourself with one question please. And the next question will come from Karl Madreau from Barclays.
Yes, one, two questions for me if I can. I guess just one just to come back on the Chinese market. I think you mentioned earlier on the call that there was some pressure in cosmetics in China just to clarify. Did you just link to this great market by Go Business which is of course, I think the pressure or could we think that the middle-class consumer in China is still performing a bit less strongly than the higher end consumers who maybe tend to buy a bit more fashion and as a good product categories. That's the first question.
And the very quick second question I had was on Lividon. Of course, you mentioned that you have hired Ferrell Williams in the menswear segment of the past few months. Can you remind us about the structure of the women's wear designing team? Of course Mr. Giske has been here for I think around 10 years now. How should we think about, you know, is there any element of disruption you want to add to the way he operates? Are there any communication between menswear and women's wear? Or are you fully happy with the structure? Should we expect any more collaboration? As you of course have been doing lately on the list of good categories. Just to give us updates on how we can think about the women's wear segments could be interesting. Thank you.
So on the Chinese perfomance cosmetic market, we've been saying the same thing for quite a long period of time. The market is being heavily disrupted by the parallel business degree market or whichever way you call it the Daegu-Grey market parallel that is creating an enormous pressure, discount pressure on the market. And when you try to preserve the value of the brand not to discount, obviously you're at disadvantage vis-à-vis the competition. So I don't think the Chinese, the mainland Chinese customer by itself is in any way showing some signs of weakness and not particularly today with the recovery that we see there. But the market is heavily disrupted by the discounts and particularly on the best sellers that have been introduced during the pandemic period through the duty-free segment. So it's something that we don't see clearly where the market is going. It will take a while to normalize. But as far as we are concerned, I will never play the game of discounts because we know it would be destroying the brand. When you have a brand like Geo, obviously it would be a very bad idea to discount the Deore-Perfemincosmetic brand given the size and importance of the Deore-Couture business altogether in mainland China. So it will be very strict. We have been and will be very strict on that.
With regards to the organization of the ready-to-wear business and the creation within Vitton, we are extremely happy with the way it works. There are a lot of contacts and collaboration between men and women. I cannot really elaborate because it's a question of how the business is being organized but don't expect major changes in the way the business is being managed in the future.
The next question comes from Natasha Brillian from Greece.
下一个问题来自希腊的Natasha Brillian。她有什么问题要问。
Hello, thank you for taking my questions. I just want to ask one on capital allocation. I mean, the usual question, there's not a lot of things available and of size to buy despite some press articles associating you with some competitors. But in the absence of any large-scale M&A, could you see in the median term scope to increase the buy-back and shareholder returns?
Listen, if you look at the global numbers, I mean, the big chunk of the excess capital, whichever way you call it, free cash flow, or goes to the dividend. We have been increasing the dividend very steadily and very significantly over the last years. I think on average, over the last 30 years, we've been increasing the dividend by 11% per annum. So that absorbs a big chunk of the cash flow. Even if we don't do sizable acquisitions for lack of compelling opportunities or available opportunities as we speak, we do some acquisitions, bolt-on. I mean, we've been doing a few things as you've noticed in wine and spirit. We always do some acquisitions. They also do consume more absorb a little bit of the excess cash flow. And the debt as a potential to go down. So we have a share buy-back program, which has been set at a billion and a half for this year. It was the same amount last year. I think we are fine with that level for the time being, if the cash flow increases and we have to revisit that question, another good problem to have. Well, we'll think about it, but for the time being, we don't think it is necessary.
And the last question comes from Li Wei Hu from CICC.
最后一个问题来自中金公司的胡立伟。请问您能回答一下吗?
Thank you very much, Jim Jack-Kris and Haudenosaun. I have one question with two small parts, if you don't mind.
非常感谢你们,吉姆·杰克-克里斯和霍登诺赛。不知道你们是否介意我问一个问题,有两个小部分。
The first part is if we look at the spending by Chinese cluster in the first quarter of 23, when compared to first quarter of 2019, what will be the growth for Chinese and how has that performed compared to other nationalities? So that's the first part. Please share some comments on that.
And the second part is if we take a time machine back to four months ago, I assume most of us will be more optimistic about Chinese rebound and growth rates. So compared to the reality, apparently there's some gap in there. So apart from the acceleration of all of the short spending by Chinese, what are the other main reasons that led to this gap between expectation and reality? Thank you very much.
Well, maybe expectations were too optimistic, so I cannot comment on that end of the comparison. As far as we are concerned, I mean, four months ago we really thought that with the release of all these Euro-Covid measures, we were off for something like six months chaos in China for the normalization of the sanitary and the pandemic situation. It happened to be much, much shorter than that and it was a pleasing surprise.
So it's a little bit counterintuitive now to really be disappointed by China. If we compare the situation today where we were five months ago, it's much, much, much better. So as far as we are concerned, when the situation in mainland China is an excellent surprise compared to what we thought it could be only four, five months ago.
With regards to the Chinese cluster versus 2019, I don't have very precise numbers in mind, but I think we are all together in between 30 or even 40. No, it's between 40 and 50 percent, I guess, higher than what we were in 2019. Obviously, where the business takes place is entirely different from what it was in 2019. But we've been growing the business very steadily ever since. Or the old is that it?
Yes, that's it. Thank you. Thank you so much for attending the call. And as I mentioned, I look forward to discussing with you all the PNL numbers at the end of July, as we always do. Thank you and have a great evening. Bye.