Fast Fashion | Stitch by Stitch | 2
发布时间 2021-10-04 07:30:00 来源
摘要
It’s 1974 and Amancio Ortega, determined to break the cycle of poverty he experienced growing up in Spain, uses his background in retail and manufacturing to found future fast fashion giant Zara. Meanwhile, Topshop is born as a small section in the basement of a department store, and future CEO Philip Green flounders with a misguided attempt to break into the denim business. And overseas in California, a pair of Korean immigrants chasing their American dream found Forever 21, the most affordable fast fashion brand yet. Listen to new episodes 1 week early and to all episodes ad free with Wondery+. Join Wondery+ for exclusives, binges, early access, and ad free listening. Available in the Wondery App https://wondery.app.link/businesswars.Support us by supporting our sponsors!See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.
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Hey, prime members. You can listen to business wars at free on Amazon music. Download the app today.
嘿，亚马逊会员。您可以免费在亚马逊音乐上收听商业战争。今天就下载该应用程序。
1949, A Coruña, a port town in northwestern Spain. 13-year-old Amoncio Ortega Gona inners a small grocery store with his mother Josefa. As they walk the aisles or take a reaches for some sweets. But his mother pulls him away. We can only afford the necessities. Ortega's father is a railway worker and the family of six live in a small row house by the train tracks. Josefa works as a housemate.
1949年，位于西班牙西北部的港口城镇科鲁尼亚。13岁的阿蒙西奥·奥尔特加·戈纳和他的母亲何塞法一起走进一家小杂货店。当他们走过货架时，阿蒙西奥伸手想拿一些糖果。但他的母亲拉着他走开了。我们只能买必需品。奥尔特加的父亲是一名铁路工人，一家六口住在火车轨道旁的一排小房子里。何塞法是一名佣人。
Josefa gathers a few essentials into her basket; a loaf of bread, a bottle of milk, some half-price meat. As she puts the items on the counter, the cashier glairs at her. No, I can't keep selling to you on credit. Ortega's mother is mortified. Please, I will pay very soon, as soon as my husband and I get our next wages.
Josefa拿着篮子把几个必需品装了进去；一块面包，一瓶牛奶，一些半价的肉。她把这些物品放在柜台上时，收银员盯着她看。不，我不能再给你赊账了。Ortega的母亲感到尴尬。请你再给我一次机会，我很快就会还钱的，只要我和我丈夫拿到我们下一份工资。
That's what you always say. I'm sorry. You either pay now or you can't have it. Josefa scrounges in her purse, managing to find a few pesetas. That only covers the bread. Josefa fights through the tears as she nods. Taking the loaf of bread and sticking it into her purse. She grabs her son's hand. I'm sorry, Amoncio. We'll get more food next time. I promise.
“你总是这么说。”对不起，你要么现在付钱，要么就不能买了。Josefa在她的钱包里搜刮着，设法找到了一些比塞塔斯。那只够买面包了。Josefa点头，抑制着眼泪。她把面包塞进手提包里，抓住她儿子的手。“对不起，Amoncio。下次我们会买更多的食物。我保证。”
It's okay, mama. He sees the pain in his mother's eyes. The shame of the moment makes such a strong impression on Ortega. That he vows to get out of poverty. He quits school and gets a job as a shop hand at a local shirtmaker called Gala. During his 10 years there, he learns how to sew and Notices that the shop's owners avoid the cost of third-party distributors by delivering orders themselves. After a few years, he moves on to work with two of his siblings at a clothing store called Lamaha.
没关系，妈妈。他看见妈妈眼中的痛苦。这个时刻的耻辱给奥特加留下了深刻的印象。他发誓要走出贫困。他退出学校，在当地一家名叫Gala的衬衣制造商店里找到了一份店员的工作。在那里工作了10年，他学会了如何缝制和注意到，该店的老板通过自行交付订单的方式避免了第三方分销商的成本。几年后，他和两个兄弟一起在一家名叫Lamaha的服装店工作。
Ortega sees an opportunity. His boss is seemed to be paying an awful lot to stock the store. What if he could produce original designs faster and sell them for a lower price while maintaining quality? At age 27, he starts his own business along with his fiance Rosalia Mera. It's a small business, but it is the beginning of an empire, one that will become known as Zara and will make Ortega one of the wealthiest people in the world.
奥尔特加看到了一个机会。他的老板似乎花了很多钱来进货。如果他能更快地生产出原创设计，并以更低的价格销售，同时保持质量，那会怎样呢？27岁时，他与未婚妻罗莎利娅·梅拉一起创立了自己的公司。这是一个小型企业，但它是一个帝国的开始，这个帝国将被称为Zara，将使奥尔特加成为世界上最富有的人之一。
Hi, I'm Sarah Hagi, co-host of Wonder East podcast Scams. In our recent two-part series, Three Weddings and a Funeral. We dive into the story of a German con man who built an entire life on fake names, lies, and schemes. And the unlikely true-kind twist that brought this decades-long charade crashing down. Listen to Scams on Amazon Music or wherever you get your podcasts.
嗨，我是Sarah Hagi，Wonder East播客Scams的共同主持人。在我们最近的两集节目《Three Weddings and a Funeral》中，我们深入探讨了一个德国骗子用假名字、谎言和计划建立整个生活的故事。还有一个意想不到的真正善良的转折点，让这几十年的骗局瓦解了。在Amazon Music或您获取播客的任何地方收听Scams。
From wondering, I'm David Brown, and this is Business Wars. In our last episode, visionary brand director Jane Sheppardson's keen instincts led British retailer Topshop to glory. But she stepped aside after differences with the company's new owner Philip Green. Meanwhile, H&M soared opening its first store in the United States and making headlines for a one-of-a-kind collaboration with Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld.
我是大卫·布朗，欢迎收听《商战》。在上一集中，具有远见卓识的品牌总监简·谢伯森的敏锐直觉使得英国零售商Topshop取得了辉煌的成果。但是由于与公司新老板菲利普·格林有分歧，她选择离开了。同时，H&M迅速崛起，在美国开设了第一家门店，并因与香奈儿的卡尔·拉格菲德合作而成为新闻焦点。
In this episode, we explore the beginnings of both companies as well as two more; Zara, which finds an advantage with a short supply chain, and Forever 21, an American discount mecca founded by two Korean immigrants. This is episode two. Stitch by Stitch.
在这一集中，我们探讨了两家公司的起源，以及另外两家公司：Zara，它通过短供应链找到了优势，和Forever 21，这是由两位韩国移民创立的美国折扣天堂。这是第二集。一针接一针。
1964 Sheffield, England, ten years before the birth of Zara. In a small back corner of the basement of the popular women's department store called Peter Robinson, there's a selection of hip youthful clothes. They stand out next to the stores conservative look. The Peter Robinson department store chain is owned by the wealthy and prestigious Burton family, known for their vast chain of tailoring stores and factories.
1964年，英国谢菲尔德，比扎拉出生早十年。在一家名为彼得罗宾逊的热门女装店的地下室的一个小角落里，有一大批时尚又年轻的衣服。它们在那些守旧经典的商店旁显得很突出。彼得罗宾逊成为了由富有和名门贵族伯顿家族所有的百货店连锁的一部分，后者以其庞大的裁缝店和工厂连锁店而闻名。
And now a member of the next generation of burdens is trying to make his mark. 46-year-old Raymond Burton is the chairman of the department store. He has a Cambridge degree, a Harvard MBA, and served in World War II. This background gives himself confidence and high expectations for himself. He'll need both to accomplish his plan to take the family business in a new trendier direction.
现在，下一代的负担成员正在努力站稳脚跟。46岁的雷蒙德·伯顿是百货公司的主席。他拥有剑桥大学学位、哈佛大学MBA学位，并在二战中服役。这样的背景为他自己带来了自信和高度期望。他需要这两者来实现他将家族企业带入一条新的、更时尚的方向的计划。
Burton stands next to a young buyer named Diane Waitey. They look on anxiously waiting for customers to discover their new little corner of flashy clothes. What Raymond's dub Peter Robinson's Topshop, Burton turns to Waitey. I have a good feeling about this. Waitey is skeptical. But we haven't had a single customer walk over here yet, and it's been an hour.
伯顿站在一位年轻买家戴安·韦蒂旁边，他们焦急地盼望着顾客发现他们新开的华丽服装角落。雷蒙德所称的彼得·罗宾逊的Topshop，伯顿转向韦蒂说：我对这个有好感。韦蒂持怀疑态度。但是我们已经一个小时没有一个顾客走过来了。
Give him time. We just need young people to find us and spread the word. And will they find us in the basement? Teenagers don't shop here unless they're dragged by their mothers. We might be in the basement for now, but with your eye, I think our customers will be clamoring for more before long. Waitey has made a name for herself by having a knack for spotting talented young designers.
给他时间。我们只需要年轻人来找到我们并传播这个声音。他们会在地下室找到我们吗？除非被母亲拖来，青少年不会在这里购物。现在我们可能还在地下室，但凭你的眼光，我认为我们的客户很快就会迫不及待地要更多。Waitey通过发现有才华的年轻设计师而声名鹊起。
I'm excited about the pieces from this designer Mary Quant. She's raising hemlines and using these bright bold colors like scarlet and ginger. And I have ideas for more collaborations too. I think we're ahead of our competitors; not many stores are targeting shoppers so young. We have a real opportunity here. As they watch two young women wander over and begin to comb through the garments with curiosity.
我对这位设计师玛丽·昆特的作品感到兴奋。她正在提高衣摆位置，使用鲜艳而大胆的颜色，比如猩红和姜黄色。而且我还有更多合作的想法。我认为我们比竞争对手领先；没有多少商店瞄准如此年轻的购物者。我们真的有一个机会。当他们看到两个年轻女子漫步过来，好奇地搜索这些衣物时。
Waitey and Burton can barely hide their excitement. I think Peter Robinson's Topshop is about to make their first sale. And it will be the first of many. The following year, Topshop opens in the basement of Peter Robinson's flagship store in Oxford circus. And by 1974, Topshop officially gets out of the basement and becomes a standalone store. By 1976, it's opened a total of 55 stores and earns over a million pounds in profit.
Waitey和Burton几乎无法掩饰他们的兴奋。我认为彼得·罗宾逊的Topshop即将进行第一次销售。并且这将是很多次销售中的第一次。接下来的一年，Topshop在彼得·罗宾逊牛津街旗舰店的地下室开业。到了1974年，Topshop正式脱离地下室，成为一个独立店铺。到了1976年，它已经开了55家店，获得了超过一百万英镑的利润。
Burton's legacy as the founder of Topshop is secure. But ultimately, he won't be the man most associated with the mega-brand. No, that honor will go to a leader far more brash whose choices will wreak all kinds of havoc.
伯顿作为Topshop的创始人留下了深刻的遗产。但是，最终，他可能不会被认为是这个超级品牌最具标志性的人物。相反，这份荣耀将属于一个更为倔强的领袖，他的选择将引起各种混乱。
1975 A Coruña, Spain. Amoncio Ortega Gona walks the aisles of his small textile manufacturing company, Confecciones Goa. Ortega is now 39 years old, decades past that moment at the grocery store with his mother. Ortega grasps the arm of his wife Rosalia and heads her to a back room away from the prying eyes of their employees.
1975年，西班牙的科鲁尼亚。阿蒙西奥·奥尔特加·戈纳在他的小型纺织制造公司Confecciones Goa的通道上走动着。奥尔特加现在已经39岁了，距离他与母亲在杂货店那一刻已经过去了几十年。他紧握着妻子罗莎丽娅的胳膊，将她带到了一个背部房间，远离雇员们好奇的目光。
Rosalia, we need to talk. The back room is full of racks and racks of clothing they produce on-site; quilted bathrobes and housecoats, but also shirts, pants, and dresses. Ortega turns to Rosalia. We have a big problem. Rosalia furrows her brow. What's wrong?
"Rosalia，我们需要谈谈。后面房间里摆满了他们现场生产的很多衣服，有棉袍和家居服，但也有衬衫、裤子和裙子。"Ortega转向Rosalia，“我们有严重的问题。”Rosalia皱起了眉头，“出了什么问题？”
Our wholesalers cancel their order. How many items? Everything in this entire room. As they look around, their hearts sink. There are easily hundreds of items that have already been produced and now they have no way to sell them. All that time and money straight down the drain.
我们的批发商取消了订单。取消了多少物品？整个房间里的所有东西。当他们环顾四周时，心情很沮丧。有数百件商品已经制造完成，现在他们无法出售。所有的时间和金钱都白费了。
Oh, what are we going to do? Rosalia crumples into a nearby chair. We were counting on that sale; we'll be in the red for months without it. It could be the end of us. The two have a seven-year-old and a four-year-old to provide for. Their youngest has cerebral palsy. They also have a workforce of 500 employees that depend on their jobs at the factory.
哦，我们该怎么办呢？罗萨莉亚崩溃地坐在附近的椅子上。我们本来指望那笔销售订单的，如果没有它，我们将亏损数月之久。这可能会导致我们的破产。这对夫妇还有一个七岁和四岁的孩子要供养。他们最小的孩子患有脑性瘫痪。他们还有一个500名员工的工作场所，这些员工依赖着工厂的工作。
Ortega looks around, pondering. Then an idea strikes. We have to sell it. The merchandise? But how? If our buyer doesn't want it, maybe we don't need a buyer.. What if we sell it ourselves? A mancio. We have no storefront, no customers. We're a manufacturing company. And I think it's time we become more than that. Why not have our own store?
奥特加四处张望，思考着。突然想到一个主意。我们必须把它卖掉。商品？但是怎么卖？如果我们的买家不想要它，也许我们不需要一个买家。要不我们自己卖？一个商店。我们没有门面，没有客户。我们是制造公司。我认为现在是时候我们变得更加多样化了。为什么不开我们自己的商店呢？
My first job was in a store. I was 14. Opening a store will be awfully expensive. What if it doesn't work and we can't sell these clothes? Our entire business could go under. It won't. Think about the possibilities. If we cut out the middleman and own the manufacturing, we can increase our profits. We'll control the entire process. Don't you see we're forging a new path doing something different? Well, I just hope doing something different doesn't make us go bankrupt.
我第一份工作是在商店里，那时我14岁。开一家店成本非常高啊，如果卖不掉这些衣服，我们的整个生意都可能垮掉。但是不会的，你想一想这个机会带来的可能性。如果我们剔除中间商并且拥有制造业，我们就可以增加利润。我们将掌管整个流程。你看不出我们正在开辟一条新路吗？唉，我只是希望做些不同的事情不会让我们破产。
Within the year, they obtain a storefront in downtown Acaruña. Now, they need a name. He and Rosalia think about what brings them joy. They land on the name Zorba. After their favorite movie, the 1964 smash hit Zorba the Greek, starring Anthony Quinn. As soon as their sign is up, they can open the doors and begin the next chapter. But there's a problem.
他们在一年内在阿卡鲁尼亚市中心获得了一个店面。现在，他们需要一个名字。他和罗莎莉娅考虑了什么能让他们快乐的事情。他们最终决定使用名字“Zorba”。这个名字来自于他们最喜欢的电影，1964年的“希腊之声”，由安东尼·奎因主演。一旦他们的招牌挂起来，他们就可以打开门开始新的篇章。但是现在出现了一个问题。
Ortega and his wife Rosalia stand outside their new storefront in downtown Acaruña, Spain. There are a few days away from the grand opening. This store is the first step in their plan to sell clothes inspired by high-end fashion. But at a much lower price. In the process, they hope to democratize the clothing industry. Rosalia watches from the sidewalk as her husband hangs molded letters that spell Zorba across the buildings facade. She shouts up to him A little to the left. Ortega adjusts one of the letters. Is that better? A little bit. Now Move the A down. Move the A down.
奥特加和他的妻子罗莎丽亚正在西班牙阿卡鲁尼亚市中心的新店面外站着，距离盛大开业还有几天。这家店是他们计划出售高端时尚灵感衣服的第一步，但价格要低得多。在此过程中，他们希望实现服装行业的民主化。罗莎丽亚站在街边看着她的丈夫挂着拼成“Zorba”的各种字母。她朝他喊：往左边再移动一点。 奥特加调整了其中一封信。好了吗？稍微好一点。现在把A往下挪一点。把A往下挪一点。
Just then, a man approaches frowning at the new side. Excuse me, is this your business? Ortega descends the ladder, sizing the man up. Yes, our new clothing store and who are you? I own a bar two blocks away. Want to guess what my bar is called? The pleasant smile fades from Ortega's face. Zorba. My bar is called Zorba. And I think having two Zorbas in town is just going to confuse everyone. We had no idea there was already a business with the same name. Clearly. Well, I hope you reconsider. You haven't opened and I've been here for years. And I would hate for us to have a problem. I'm sure we can find a solution. I hope so. The bar owner stalks away.
就在那时，一个人走近了，皱着眉头看着新店。对不起，这是您的生意吗？Ortega走下梯子，打量着那个人。是的，这是我们的新服装店，你是谁？我拥有一个两个街区以外的酒吧。你猜猜我的酒吧叫什么？Ortega的愉快笑容消失了。Zorba。我的酒吧叫Zorba。我认为在镇上有两个Zorbas只会让大家更加困惑。我们不知道已经有一个同名的企业了。显然。好吧，我希望你考虑一下。你还没有开业，我已经在这里经营多年了。我很讨厌我们有问题。我相信我们可以找到解决方法。希望如此。酒吧老板走开了。
Ortega and Rosalia look at each other worried. We already made the molds for the letters. Maybe we can rearrange them into something. They both look at the letters. ZORBA. Bora. Mmm, sounds too much like Bora Bora, you know. We could reshape that O Turn it into an A. Call it Zora. After the harbor in Croatia where we honeymoon. I like it even better than Zorba. It feels more like us. And hopefully nobody already has a bar with that name.
奥泰加和罗莎莉亚非常担心地看着对方。我们已经制作了这些字母的模具了。也许我们可以重新排列它们变成别的东西。他们一起看着这些字母。ZORBA。博拉。嗯，听起来太像波拉波拉了，你知道的。我们可以重新塑造那个O，把它变成A。叫它Zora。为我们度蜜月的克罗地亚港口的名字。我比Zorba更喜欢它。它更像我们，希望没有人已经开了一个同名酒吧。
Ortega's instincts about the name of his business are spot on. He's also right about the potential in owning their own manufacturing arm. This allows them to respond to consumers' whims with lightning speed. It's a game changer and sets the company up for major success.
奥尔泰加对于自己公司名称的直觉非常准确。他对于拥有自己的制造部门所带来的潜力也是正确的。这样可以让他们以闪电般的速度满足消费者的需要。这是一次重大改变，为公司的成功奠定了基础。
Meanwhile in the UK, a young British entrepreneur is also dipping a toe into the fashion industry. London, 1981. Philip Green, a 29-year-old businessman with dark bushy hair and the slick confidence of a used car salesman is meeting with a potential investor. After dropping out of school at age 15, he quickly learned he was skilled at negotiations and found work acting as a go-between for suppliers and wholesalers. He's also been testing the waters with other business ventures including an import and export business. But now, he has an idea that he is convinced will put him on the map in the fashion industry.
与此同时，在英国，一位年轻的英国企业家也涉足时尚行业。1981年的伦敦。菲利普·格林，一个29岁的商人，头发浓密，像一名二手车销售员一样精明自信，正在与一位潜在的投资者会面。他在15岁辍学后很快发现自己擅长谈判，并找到了充当供应商和批发商之间中间人的工作。他也在尝试其他业务，包括进出口业务。但现在，他有一个想法，他相信可以让他在时尚行业上获得成功。
Green holds the gaze of the investor. We have an untapped corner of the market here at the UK. American style jeans are very popular. But no one's selling them at affordable prices. My jeans line will be named after Joan Collins. The actress will also make them in China where it's less expensive. The investor looks intrigued. You have relationships in China? I work for a wholesale shoe company that did a lot of business with manufacturers in Hong Kong. I know the lay of the land there. And what about Collins? Is she on board with you using her name? She's agreed to collaborate on the line. We're going to rush the jeans to stores. British girls love Joan Collins.
绿色吸引了投资者的目光。在英国，我们有一个未开发的市场角落。美式牛仔裤非常受欢迎。但没有人以实惠的价格销售它们。我的牛仔裤系列将以琼·柯林斯的名字命名。这位女演员也会在中国制造，因为那里成本更低。投资者好像很感兴趣。你在中国有关系吗？我曾为一家批发鞋公司工作，与香港制造商做过很多生意。我知道那里的情况。那么柯林斯呢？她同意与我合作推出这个系列。我们会赶快把牛仔裤送到商店里。英国女孩喜欢琼·柯林斯。
Green could not be more confident. He orders a million pairs of dark denim Joan Collins jeans from Hong Kong manufacturers. He charges 17 pounds per pair, a fairly high price for simple denim at the time. But he's certain they'll sell out. Then Green holds a launch party in the upscale London neighborhood of Mayfair at his shop, Bonstreet Bandit, where he typically sells surplus designer clothes from previous seasons. He and Collins pose for photos as they cut into a chocolate cake shaped like a pair of jeans.
绿（Green）非常自信。他从香港制造商那里订购了一百万双深色牛仔裤 Joan Collins（的牌子）。他定价为每双17英镑，这在当时是一个相当高的价格。但他相信它们一定会卖完。然后，绿在伦敦高档社区梅费尔（Mayfair）的他的店铺Bonstreet Bandit举办了一次发布会。他在那里通常销售上一季度的剩余设计师服装。他和Collins一起剪了一个巧克力蛋糕造型像一条牛仔裤，并且拍了照片。
But the idea is a complete flop. British girls don't actually love Joan Collins. Young trendy shoppers don't think of her, a middle-aged celebrity for a different generation, as someone they want to emulate. Green is forced to sell the jeans at a loss. While he has a keen sense for business and negotiations, he is very out of touch with what young customers consider cool.
但这个想法完全失败了。英国女孩实际上并不喜欢琼·柯林斯。年轻的时尚购物者不会想到她，因为她是属于另一代人的中年名人，不是他们想要效仿的人。格林被迫亏本出售这些牛仔裤。虽然他有商业和谈判的敏锐感觉，但他非常不了解年轻客户认为什么是酷的。
While it'll be decades before Green purchases Topshop, these strengths and weaknesses foreshadow the twists and turns of his career. While Green struggles to get his footing in the 80s, Zara, Topshop, and the Swedish company H&M battle among themselves for the budget-minded shopper. But these squabbling mega-brands could be forgiven for overlooking a humble American couple about to get into the game too. And they're not necessarily planning to play by the rules.
虽然格林要在几十年后才能购买Topshop，但他的职业生涯的曲折与风险在这里已经显现。在80年代，格林一开始并不得心应手，而Zara、Topshop以及瑞典的H&M则在追求预算有限的购物者方面互相竞争。但是这些争吵不休的大品牌可能忽略了一个谦逊的美国夫妇，他们也即将进入这个领域。而且，他们不一定计划按照规则来玩这个游戏。
It's the fall of 2017 in Rancho Tejama, California. A man and his wife are driving to a doctor's appointment when another car crashes into them, sending them flying off the road. Disoriented, they stumble out of the car only to hear dozens of gunshots whizzing past them. This is just one chapter of a much larger nightmare unraveling in their small town. This is actually happening presents a special limited series called Point Blank, shedding a light on the forgotten spree killings of Rancho Tejama, where a lone gunman devastated a small town, attacking eight different locations in the span of only 25 minutes.
现在是2017年秋天，在加利福尼亚的Rancho Tejama，一名男子和他的妻子正在开车去看医生，突然一辆车撞上了他们，将他们甩出了路面。他们晕眩地从车里爬出来，只听到无数枪声飞过他们的身边。这只是他们所在的小镇正在经历的一场更大的噩梦中的一个章节。《这真的正在发生》推出了一个特别限量系列节目《Point Blank》，揭示了Rancho Tejama被遗忘的杀戮事件，其中一名孤独的枪手在短短25分钟内袭击了小镇的八个不同地点。
The series follows five stories of people connected to the incident, from a father that drew the gunman away from a local school to the sister of the shooter. These are riveting stories that will stick with you long after you listen. Follow This is actually happening wherever you listen to podcasts. You can listen ad-free on the Amazon Music or Wondery app.
这个系列的故事跟随着与这起事件有关的五个人的经历，从一个将枪手引开当地学校的父亲到枪手的妹妹。这些引人入胜的故事将在你听完后长久留在你的心中。你可以在任何播客平台上收听《This is actually happening》。在亚马逊音乐或Wondery应用程序上，你可以无广告收听。
1982, a modest one bedroom apartment in the Highland Park neighborhood of Los Angeles. Jinsuk Chang, a 26-year-old Korean immigrant bustles around in the kitchen. Her husband, Du Wond Chang, enters the apartment. He's three years her junior and has round cheeks and a sunny smile. From the way he carries himself, it's clear he's exhausted. But he's not one to complain.
1982年，位于洛杉矶高地公园社区的一间简朴的一卧室公寓。26岁的韩裔移民Jinsuk Chang在厨房里忙碌着。她的丈夫Du Wond Chang进入公寓。他比她小三岁，脸颊圆圆，笑容明朗。从他的举止来看，他显然很疲惫。但他不会抱怨。
Du Wond sits down at the kitchen table as Jinsuk prepares him a plate of dinner leftovers. He smiles at her gratefully. "How was your day?" "Very good and busy.. I had seven clients today," Jinsuk trained as a hairdresser back in South Korea. She's put those skills to good use in her new home.
Du Wond坐在厨房桌前，Jinsuk为他准备了一盘晚餐剩菜。他感激地笑了笑。 "你今天过得如何？""非常不错而且很忙..我今天有七个客户，" Jinsuk在韩国时接受过理发师的培训。她在新家中很好地利用了这些技能。
"I learned something interesting at the gas station today. Hi, your ball." "You have so many jobs. The gas station, the coffee shop, cleaning offices. I'm worried. It's too much. You work 19 hours a day." "Please, don't worry, sweetie. So, back to what I learned at the gas station. I've started asking people who drive fancy cars what they do for a living. And you know what they all say? They work in the apparel industry. Makes sense. People love looking good. I think I'm going to look for a job in a clothing store. Try to learn how things work. I think this could be our American dream.
今天在加油站我学到了一个有趣的事情。嗨，你的球。你有这么多工作，加油站，咖啡店，清洁办公室。我担心。这太多了。你一天工作19个小时。亲爱的，请不要担心。所以，回到我在加油站学到的东西。我开始询问开豪车的人他们的职业是什么。你知道他们都说什么吗？他们在服装行业工作。很有道理。人们喜欢看起来好看。我想我可以在服装店找份工作。尝试学习如何运作。我认为这可以成为我们的美国梦。
Imagine if we open our own store. You've always had such an eye for trends? We could sell South Korean inspired clothes to the community here. We need more money to start our own business. But this store, what would you call it?" "Fashion 21." "Why 21?" "Because it's the most enviable age. Your young and your whole feature is ahead of you. And imagine, one day we could have giant stores in every major city in America. This could be our legacy."
想象一下，如果我们开设我们自己的店。你一向对时尚趋势有绝佳的眼光。我们可以向社区出售韩国风格的衣服。我们需要更多的资金来启动我们的业务。但是这个店叫什么名字呢？“Fashion 21。”“为什么是21？”“因为这是最令人羡慕的年龄。你年轻，未来的前景光明。想象一下，总有一天我们可以在美国每个主要城市拥有巨大的商店。这可能是我们的遗产。”
Jinsu considers the idea. A devoted Christian who attends church every morning. She knows where she will find her answer. "Ariseo Yobo, I will pray on this. If God thinks we should open a store that this will make us successful. He will tell us."
Jinsu正在考虑这个想法。她是一名虔诚的基督徒，每天早上都会去教堂。她知道她会在哪里找到答案。“Ariseo Yobo，我会为此祈祷。如果上帝认为我们应该开一家店来使我们成功，他会告诉我们的。”
By 1984, they scraped together $11,000, around $29,000 in today's dollars, and opened their first store just blocks from their apartment. The 900 square foot Fashion 21 carries South Korean trends produced by Korean American manufacturers in Los Angeles. At first, they stock their store by capitalizing on wholesale closeout deals. And the prices, card cheap, dirt cheap. So cheap that customers from the Korean American community flock to the store in unprecedented numbers.
到了1984年他们凑了11000美元，现在折合约29000美元，在距离他们公寓仅数个街区的位置开了他们的第一家商店。这家名叫Fashion 21的商店占地900平方英尺，售卖由洛杉矶韩裔制造商生产的韩国潮流服装。起初，他们通过把握折扣批发交易来储备商店的库存。价格如此便宜，以至于韩裔美国人社区的顾客以前所未有的数量涌向了这家商店。
While Duwon handles the landlord and vendor relationships, Jinsu leads design and merchandising. And she uses her knack for spotting easy to copy trends to personally approve each design the store will sell. From there, she strategically places the ones she feels most confident about at the very front. In its first year of business, Fashion 21 does a remarkable $700,000 in sales. The Chongs, born again Christians who came to the United States with no money and no degrees, have made it.
当杜万负责与房东和供应商的关系时，金秀领导设计和商品销售。她利用自己发现易于复制的趋势的天赋，亲自批准商店将销售的每个设计。从那里，她战略性地将她最有信心的设计放在最前面。在创业的第一年，时尚21号店的销售额达到了惊人的70万美元。钟一家是重生基督徒，他们没有钱，也没有学位，但他们成功了。
They incorporate their faith into the store in small, subtle ways. Soon, they renamed their company Forever 21 and each yellow shopping bag is emblazoned with John 316, a reference to a Bible verse. The Chongs boast that God told them that they should open a store and promise that they would be successful. As Forever 21 eyes an expansion into California shopping malls, over in Europe, it's the beginning of a new era for Zara.
他们以小而微妙的方式把他们的信仰融入到商店中。很快，他们将公司改名为Forever 21，每个黄色购物袋都印有约翰316，这是圣经经文的引用。钟家夫妇自豪地宣称，上帝告诉他们应该开一家商店，并承诺他们会成功。随着Forever 21计划扩张到加利福尼亚购物中心，欧洲的Zara也将迎来新时代的开始。
1988, Santa Catarina Street, Porto Portugal, it's the grand opening of a new Zara store, but not just any store. After over a decade of slow growth throughout Spain, Zara is finally expanding outside Spain. Owner Amoncio Ortega Gona stands with Jose Maria Castellano, a relatively new executive at the company. They linger behind the counter and watch as customers stream into the store, faunting over the brands affordable blouses and jackets. Castellano looks pleased.
1988年，位于葡萄牙波尔图圣卡塔琳娜街的一家新Zara店铺迎来了盛大的开业典礼，但这可不是一家普通的店铺。在西班牙经历了十年缓慢增长之后，Zara终于开始了海外拓展。公司老板阿蒙西奥·奥尔特加·戈纳与相对年轻的高层管理人员何塞·玛丽亚·卡斯特利亚诺站在柜台后，注视着顾客们涌进店铺，对品牌实惠的衬衫和夹克感到赞叹。卡斯特利亚诺看上去很满意。
"This is promising, I think we're going to like it here in Portugal. Spain is great, but we have a store in every major city there, this is the new frontier." Ortega looks nervous, it's also a big risk. "How do we know that customers here will go for it the same way they did back home?" "I think we may have bigger problems back home, have you seen what's going on with H&M? They're doing really well in Germany and Sweden too, and how much longer till they wind up on our home turf?"
这很有前途，我觉得我们会喜欢葡萄牙。西班牙很好，但我们在每个主要城市都有店，这是新的领域。奥尔特加看起来很紧张，这也是一个很大的风险。 "我们怎么知道这里的顾客会像在家里一样接受它呢？" "我觉得我们在家里可能会有更大的问题，你看到H&M正在发生什么了吗？他们在德国和瑞典也做得很好，还有多久他们才会进入我们的地盘？"
"You're right, but we have an advantage, they outsource their manufacturing, their products come from the east. There's less room for error, less time to adjust if something isn't selling. We can get clothes on the shelves twice as fast because we own our own production, and it's close by." Castellano nods. "You know, I think Portugal was the right move for us, it's close to Spain and our suppliers and the culture is similar. But now we're going to have to learn how to adapt for other markets. But no matter what, that's going to make us stronger."
你说得没错，不过我们有一个优势，他们外包制造，他们的产品来自东方。出错的余地更少，如果某些东西卖不出去，调整的时间更短。由于我们拥有自己的生产，并且生产处于附近，我们可以将服装上架的速度提高一倍。 Castellano点了点头。“你知道，我认为对我们来说，葡萄牙是正确的选择，它靠近西班牙和我们的供应商，文化也相似。但是现在我们将不得不学会适应其他市场。但是无论如何，这都会使我们更强大。”
Castellano and Ortega are right. Shoppers around the globe are clamoring for fast fashion, and each company is branching out from its country of origin. Soon, Zara, H&M, Topshop, and Forever 21 will be going toe-to-toe in the same international markets. Fast fashion is booming, but its ultimate price tag will go far beyond an affordable pair of jeans. In our next episode, as the world sinks into a financial crisis, H&M and Forever 21 deal with crises of their own. And a Chinese company known as Xi'en takes fast fashion into hyperdrive.
卡斯特利亚诺和奥尔特加是对的。全球的购物者都在呼吁快时尚，每家公司都在从其原籍国分支出。不久，Zara、H&M、Topshop和Forever 21将在同一国际市场上展开竞争。快时尚正在蓬勃发展，但它的最终代价将远远超出一条价格实惠的牛仔裤。在我们的下一集中，随着世界陷入财务危机，H&M和Forever 21将处理自己的危机。一个名为稀恩的中国公司将快时尚带入了超速驱动。
Hey, Prime Members, you can binge every episode of Business Wars Add Free on Amazon Music. Download the Amazon Music app today, or you can listen Add Free with Wondery Plus in Apple Podcasts. Before you go, tell us about yourself by completing a short survey at Wondery.com/survey.
嘿，首席会员们，你们可以在亚马逊音乐上连续观看《商业战争》的每一集。今天下载亚马逊音乐应用程序，或在苹果播客中使用Wondery Plus免费收听。在离开之前，请通过填写简短的调查问卷告诉我们你的信息，网址为Wondery.com/survey。
From Wondery, this is episode two of Fast Fashion for Business Wars. A quick note about recreations you've been hearing, in most cases we can't know exactly what was said at the time those scenes are dramatizations but they're based on historical research.
来自Wondery，这是《商业战争》的快时尚第二集。提醒一下，你听到的再现情节，在大多数情况下我们无法确定当时确切的说话内容，但它们是基于历史研究的。
I'm your host David Brown, Aaron Conley wrote this story, voice acting by Michelle Philippi, Jennifer Sunbell, and Will Choi. Karen Lo is our senior producer and editor, edited and produced by Emily Frost, sound designed by Kyle Randall.
大家好，我是主持人David Brown。这个故事是由Aaron Conley撰写的，并由Michelle Philippi，Jennifer Sunbell和Will Choi进行声音表演。Karen Lo是我们的资深制片人和编辑。节目的制作和编辑由Emily Frost完成，声音设计则由Kyle Randall负责。
Our associate producer is Kate Young, our producer is Dave Schilling, our executive producers are Jenny Lauer Beckman and Marshall Louis. Created by Arnon Lopez for Wondery. Wondery.
我们的副制片人是凯特·杨，我们的制片人是戴夫·希林，我们的执行制片人是珍妮·劳尔·贝克曼和马歇尔·路易斯。由阿尔农·洛佩斯为Wondery创建。Wondery。