Fast Fashion | Clothes Call | 3
发布时间 2021-10-06 15:30:00 来源
摘要
It’s 2010, and a series of deadly tragedies at factories in Bangladesh paint H&M and the fast fashion industry in a negative light. In response, the company doubles down on sustainability, launching a new eco-friendly line.Meanwhile, Forever 21 goes to court over copyright infringement allegations, and Zara invests in technology to streamline its supply chain. But there’s a new player on the scene, Chinese company Shein, and their online-only business model is about to change the game. Listen to new episodes 1 week early and to all episodes ad free with Wondery+. Join Wondery+ for exclusives, binges, early access, and ad free listening. Available in the Wondery App https://wondery.app.link/businesswars.Support us by supporting our sponsors!See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.
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中英文字稿 
Hey, prime members, you can listen to business wars at free on Amazon Music. Download the app today.
嘿，亚马逊会员们，你们可以免费在Amazon Music上收听商战。今天就下载这个应用程序。
February 25, 2010. Daca, the capital of Bangladesh. The seven-story building is cramped. Dozens of workers sit at sewing machines working diligently. They're cramped inside the garab and garab new-age sweater factory. And if they stop working, they'll miss their production targets and take home less paid.
2010年2月25日，在孟加拉国首都达卡。这座七层楼的建筑非常拥挤。数十名工人坐在缝纫机前勤勉地工作。他们拥挤在加尔布和加尔布新世纪毛衣工厂里。如果他们停止工作，就会错过生产目标，拿回家的工资也会更少。
Aside from the hum of machinery at work, it's quiet. On the third floor, a young woman pauses to wipe away the beads of sweat dripping down her brow. She curses under her breath. Damn, it's hot in here. Though it's past nine o'clock at night, the air is still and thick. The woman glances wistfully at the windows. She's told they're kept closed for security purposes. She's been working 10 hours straight, stitching sweater after sweater.
除了机器在运作时的嗡嗡声，这里很安静。在三楼，一个年轻女子停下来擦掉从额头滴下的汗珠。她嘴里咒骂着：该死，这里真热。虽然已经晚上九点过了，空气却仍然闷热。女子向窗外望去，心生感慨。她听说这些窗户出于安全考虑一直都是关着的。她已经连续工作了10个小时，一件接一件地缝制毛衣。
Suddenly, she smells something. She turns to another worker, her friend. Do you smell that? Quiet. Wait. Is that? Smoke. It's rising from a lower floor, and it's filling the room fast. Workers abandon their stations and rush for the stairwells jostling each other for space. But the emergency exits are sealed shut. The woman and her friend join others in banging on the exits. She screams, but her lungs fill with smoke. A security guard grabs a fire extinguisher from the wall. She fumbles with it unsure how to use it. Some workers rush to the windows, but they're covered by iron grills welded to the building. Soon, firefighters arrive.
突然，她闻到了一股气味。她转向另一位工人，她的朋友：“你闻到了吗？”安静一点，等等，那是什么？烟。它正在从底层升起，迅速填满了房间。工人们离开了他们的岗位，挤着走向楼梯间。但紧急出口已经被封闭。这位女士和她的朋友与其他人一起敲打出口。她尖叫着，但肺部充满了烟雾。一位保安从墙上拿起了灭火器。她摸索着不确定该如何使用它。有些工人冲向窗户，但它们被焊接在建筑物上的铁栅栏覆盖着。很快，消防队员到达了。
The blaze started from faulty wiring on the first floor. Workers on the upper floors are trapped by the locked exits and iron grills. Firefighters struggle to pry them open. Many workers will not escape. The factory workers, including those who perished, were working to fulfill orders for fast fashion companies, including H&M. And that fact will not be lost on the public and its customers.
大火起源于一楼故障的电线。上层工人被锁定的出口和铁格栅困住。消防队员正在努力地撬开它们。许多工人将无法逃脱。这些工厂工人，包括那些死去的人，正在为快时尚公司(H&M)完成订单。这个事实将不会被公众和客户忽视。
Hi, I'm Sarah Haggie, co-host of Wanderies Podcasts Scample Insers. In our recent two-part series, Three Weddings and a Funeral, we dive into the story of a German con man who built an entire life on fake names, lies, and schemes. And the unlikely true-kind twist that brought this decades-long charade crashing down. Listen to Scample Insers on Amazon Music or wherever you get your podcasts.
嗨，我是Sarah Haggie，Wanderies Podcast的共同主持人，Scample Insers。 在我们最近的两部分系列“三个婚礼和一次葬礼”中，我们深入探讨了一个德国骗子的故事，他建立了一个完整的生活，建立在虚假的名字，谎言和阴谋上。 还有一个非常不可思议的真实转折，使这个几十年的骗局轰然倒塌。 在Amazon Music或您获取播客的任何地方收听Scample Insers。
From Wanderie, I'm David Brown and this is Business Wars. In our last episode, we witnessed the birth of H&M, top shopped Zara and Forever 21, four leaders of the fast fashion industry. As each carved out a niche in their country of origin and began to expand internationally, the company started on a collision course towards direct competition.
大家好，我是David Brown，欢迎收听Business Wars。在上一集中，我们见证了H&M、Zara和Forever 21三家快时尚品牌的诞生，它们成为了这个行业的领袖。每个品牌在自己的本土市场上都有自己的特色，然后开始往国际市场扩张，这导致这几家公司开始直接竞争起来。
Now, the rivals must face a more crowded market and the consequences of selling shockingly cheap, disposable clothing. The deadly tragedy in Bangladesh is a wake-up call for the fast fashion industry. The public is learning about the high cost of cheap clothes. Some companies pivot towards sustainability initiatives to mend their image. Others just double down on even cheaper clothing. And a new company out of China is about to disrupt the industry even further.
现在，竞争对手必须面对更加拥挤的市场以及销售价格极低、易于丢弃的服装所带来的后果。孟加拉国发生的致命悲剧是对快时尚产业的警钟。公众正在了解到廉价衣服的高昂代价。一些公司转向可持续发展倡议来修复他们的形象。其他公司则继续推出更便宜的服装。而一家来自中国的新公司即将进一步打破这个行业。
This is Episode 3. H&M's Call
这是第三集。H&M的电话。
February 26, 2010, Stockholm, Sweden. It's the day after the deadly factory fire in Bangladesh and along with a rising death toll, news is spreading quickly that H&M manufactured clothing there. H&M executives hold an emergency meeting. CEO Carl Johan Persson, the grandson of company founder, Erling Persson, sits across from the company's head of sustainability, Helena Helmerson. Neither got much sleep last night.
2020年2月26日，瑞典斯德哥尔摩。这是孟加拉国工厂火灾后的第二天，死亡人数不断上升，消息迅速传开，称H&M公司在那里生产服装。H&M的高管们召开了紧急会议。公司创始人埃林·佩尔松的孙子、CEO卡尔·约翰·佩尔松坐在可持续发展负责人海莲娜·海尔默森对面。昨晚他们都没怎么睡好。
They sit in Persson's office, untouched cups of coffee in front of them. Persson looks down at his phone and then faces Helmerson. The death toll is up to 21. It's terrible. I used to be our product manager in Dockai and I've been in that factory and met those workers. What I'm hearing from the fire inspectors is bad. They're saying exits were blocked, windows sealed. The security guards on duty didn't know how to use the fire extinguishers.
他们坐在Persson的办公室里，面前放着未动过的咖啡杯。Persson看着手机，然后面对着Helmerson。死亡人数已经增加到21人了。太可怕了。我曾经是我们在Dockai的产品经理，我曾经去过那个工厂，见过那些工人。从消防检查员那里听到的消息很糟糕。他们说出口被封锁，窗户被封死了。当班的保安不知道如何使用灭火器。
But we inspected it just a few months ago. I guess that would help cover us, but the sheer fact that they were still working at 9 pm had bested an avoidable accident, at worst negligence. We'll have to prepare a statement. Say that we have historically been satisfied with Garib and Garib's way of working with our code of conduct. And to the best of our knowledge, this terrible tragedy was not caused by poor working conditions or safety measures.
我们几个月前就检查过了，我想这可以帮我们摆脱责任，但是如果发生可以避免的事故而他们还在晚上九点工作，那最好避免不了就是疏忽大意。我们得准备一个声明，表明我们历来对Garib和Garib遵守我们的行为准则的方式都很满意。据我们所知，这场可怕的悲剧并非因为劣质的工作条件或安全措施而引起的。
Persson nods, finally reaching for his now cold coffee, release it. This is going to shine a spotlight on the industry and not in the no such thing as bad press way. But the tragedy shines a lighter and an aspect of fast fashion that many consumers don't consider. Who's actually making the clothes they buy so cheaply?
Persson点点头，最终伸手拿起已经变冷的咖啡，放下。这将会把行业放在聚光灯下，而不是以没有坏的宣传方式。但这场悲剧照亮了快时尚产业中许多消费者从未考虑过的一个方面。到底是谁在以这样便宜的价格制造他们购买的服装呢？
These clothes are cheap because garment workers in Asia are paid very little with few legal protections. The fashion industry employs one-sixth of the world's population. But only a dismal 2% of workers make a living wage. In Bangladesh, wages in the apparel industry are estimated to provide workers with only 14% of a living wage.. Comparatively, garment workers in the United States make 38 times this amount. And coupled with the vast environmental effects of the highly pollutive nature of textile making, well, one wouldn't call the fast fashion industry a model global citizen.
这些衣服之所以便宜，是因为亚洲的服装工人待遇极低，法律保护也很少。时尚行业雇用了全球六分之一的人口。但只有可怜的2%的工人拥有足够的生活工资。在孟加拉国，装备业的工资只能提供工人14%的生活工资。相比之下，美国的服装工人赚的工资是这个数额的38倍。再加上高污染纺织业的广泛环境影响，嗯，也不会有人称快时尚业是全球典范的市民。
As people learn about the environmental impacts and the horrible working conditions, their attitudes towards these companies are changing. And companies like H&M know they need to do serious damage control or risk losing everything they've built. But the timing for any push to increase wages or prices to offset the environmental and social toll couldn't be worse. 2008. It's two years earlier and the world is reeling from the Great Recession.
当人们了解到这些公司对环境造成的影响以及可怕的工作条件，他们的态度正在改变。H＆M这样的公司知道他们需要严肃地进行危机公关，否则就有失去他们所建立的一切的风险。但增加工资或价格来抵消环境和社会成本的推动的时机可能是最不好的。那是在2008年，比现在早两年，全世界正在遭受大萧条的冲击。
It's the most severe economic downturn since the Great Depression. Millions of people lose their jobs and those who haven't yet are watching their spending carefully. But when times are tough, customers don't stop shopping. They're just more budget conscious. And that helps keep these fast fashion houses in business. For out-of-work people preparing for job interviews, you can't beat a $25 for-ever 21 blazer. But things behind the scenes at Forever 21 are not so rosy.
这是自大萧条以来最严重的经济衰退。数百万人失去了工作，还未失业的人正在谨慎花费。但当时局艰难，顾客不会停止购物，只是更注重预算。这有助于使得这些快速时尚店保持运营。对于准备面试的失业者来说，25美元的Forever 21西装实在是太不错了。但Forever 21幕后的情况却并不那么美好。
April 2009, Forever 21 headquarters in Los Angeles. Inside the multi-story glass building with lush greenery and decorative hedges, at odds with the otherwise industrial feel, Du Wan Chang and Jin Su Chang sit with their attorney, Bruce Brunda. They are being sued and the atmosphere is tense.
2009年4月，在洛杉矶的Forever 21总部，一个多层玻璃建筑内有着茂密的绿植和装饰修剪的树篱，这与工业氛围格格不入。在这里，张都万和张进素和他们的律师Bruce Brunda坐着。他们正面临被起诉的情况，气氛十分紧张。
As you know, the Travada case goes to trial next month. I know you're used to settling these matters out of court. For what they're accusing you of is a bit more complex than standard copyright infringement. The Changs seem unconcerned.
你知道，Travada案下个月要接受审判。我知道你习惯了在法庭之外解决这些问题。但他们指控的不仅是普通的版权侵犯，要复杂得多。而Changs似乎不太担心。
I don't understand what makes their claims so different. Travada, another California-based fashion company, has accused Forever 21 of copying seven designs from their spring 2006 collection. They're coming after you for violating trade dress laws, meaning you copied unique details, one placement, decorative stitching, that sort of thing.
我不理解为什么他们的指控会有如此之大的不同。还有一家名叫Travada的加利福尼亚时装公司，指控Forever 21抄袭了他们2006年春季系列的七款设计。他们指责你违反了外观专利法，并且复制了独特的细节、一个位置、装饰性的缝线等等。
Brunda places a photograph in front of the Changs, showing three pairs of near identical looking garments, the original Travada designs on the bottom, and the alleged Forever 21 knockoffs on the top. There's a polo shirt with black red and yellow stripes, a brown and white stripe cartigan with mismatched buttons, and a ruffled white blouse.
布兰达在张家面前放了一张照片，上面展示了三组非常相似的服装。下面是原始的特拉瓦达设计，上面是所谓的 Forever 21 模仿品。其中有一件黑红黄相间的卫衣，一件棕白条纹的开襟毛衣配备了不同风格的钮扣，还有一件褶边的白色衬衫。
Jin Suq scoffs. Even at the cap, old Navy and those stores, they sell local likes. It's available everywhere. Stripes. They're always similar. That's true, and that's why I think you have a strong chance of winning this case. Trade dress violations are notoriously difficult to prove. We trust our vendors to manufacture our products. We didn't review these stripes because we didn't think they'd cause any problems.
金苏克嘲笑道，在店里像Old Navy和那些商店里，他们销售当地的喜好款式，到处都可以买到。条纹总是差不多的。这是真的，这就是为什么我认为你在这个案子中有很大的胜算。贸易装饰侵犯很难证明。我们相信我们的供应商制造我们的产品。我们没有审查这些条纹，因为我们认为它们不会造成任何问题。
Yeah, you need a telescope or at least binoculars to see the features they're saying were copied but, you know, I still think you need to prepare to settle out of court if it comes to it.
是啊，要看到他们说抄袭的特征，你需要望远镜或至少是双筒望远镜，但我认为如果有必要，你还需要准备好达成庭外和解。
The Changs are no strangers to copyright accusations. In recent years, they've settled filings against them by Gwen Stefani, designer Anna Sweene, and major brands Anthropology and BB, among others, for undisclosed amounts. But the Travada lawsuit marks the first time one of these cases will be heard by a jury.
长家一直面临版权指控，这一点毫不陌生。近年来，他们已经解决了由Gwen Stefani、设计师Anna Sweene以及Anthropology品牌和BB等主要品牌提起的未公开金额的诉讼。但是Travada的诉讼标志着这些案件中的一个将首次由陪审团审理。
If it comes to that, we'll handle it. But we don't even know Travada. It's not like we're being accused of stealing from a major brand.
如果真的需要，我们会解决这个问题。但我们甚至不知道特拉瓦达（Travada）是什么。这不像我们被指控从大品牌偷盗一样严重。
May 21st, 2009, US District Court in Santa Ana, California. Jens Su has been called as a witness in the Travada trial. She sits on the witness stand in the courtroom.
2009年5月21日，在加利福尼亚州圣安娜的美国地区法院。詹斯·苏被传唤作为Travada案件的证人。她坐在法庭上的证人席上。
Travada's lawyer questions her. Mrs. Chang, who are the officers of your company who have product oversight? I do not know.
Travada的律师向她发问：“张女士，贵公司的哪些官员负责产品监督？”我不知道。
You don't know the officers at your own company? Only my husband. Surely you must be aware of your company's financial statements and how much money you made last year.
你不认识你自己公司的官员吗？只有我丈夫认识。你肯定知道你公司的财务报表以及去年赚了多少钱吧。
I don't know. Would you be surprised to hear forever 21's sales exceeded $1.5 billion?
你会不会惊讶地听到Forever 21的销售额超过了15亿美元？我不知道。
Yes, it's surprising. I didn't know. So you don't know who runs your company or how much it makes. What do you know, Mrs. Chang?
是的，这令人惊讶。我不知道。那您不知道谁经营您的公司，还有它赚了多少钱。张女士，您知道什么呢？
I am head buyer. I oversee a team who selects what to buy from vendors. We simply trust the vendors and they manufacture the garment for us. We get the samples and we choose pretty ones.
我是主要采购员。我负责领导一个团队，从供应商中选购商品。我们完全信任供应商，他们会为我们制造服装。我们会得到样品，然后挑选漂亮的来购买。
The court battle results in a hung jury with one holdout siding with Forever 21. A mistrial is declared and before a new trial date can be set, the two brands settle out of court for an undisclosed sum. Most customers couldn't care less.
法庭的辩论结果是陪审团无法达成一致裁决，有一名固执己见的陪审员站在Forever 21一边。宣布判决无效，在新的审判日期之前，两个品牌达成了一项不公开金额的和解协议。大多数顾客并不关心。
In 2010, haul videos are popping up on YouTube and are even profiled by Good Morning America. All videos feature people showing off items they've recently purchased from a brand, often detailing their opinion of the items as well as the cost.
在2010年，YouTube上出现了很多展示购物战利品的视频，甚至被《早安美国》节目介绍。这些视频都是人们展示他们最近从一个品牌购买的物品，通常详细介绍物品的价值以及价钱。
In one video, two young girls, one brunette and one blonde, face the camera in a bright pink bedroom. Hey everyone, so we just got back from Forever 21 and we're going to do a haul video. Yes, we actually had an interview today and we went to Forever 21 with Good Morning America and they're actually here in my bedroom right now filming us doing this video.
在一个视频里，有两个年轻女孩，一个是棕发，一个是金发，在一个明亮的粉色卧室里面面对着摄像机。嘿，大家好，我们刚刚从Forever21买完东西回来，我们要做一个分享购物战利品的视频。是的，今天我们实际上有一个访谈，并且我们和《早安美国》一起去Forever 21。他们现在其实就在我卧室里面拍摄我们做这个视频。
So they're going to put it on their show. So then I got a kind of formal outfit too and I think the reason I got this was because one of the girls was wearing it when I went in there. This 2010 video by Tennessee Sisters L and Blair Fowler has over 2 million views.
所以他们打算把它放在他们的节目上。然后我也弄了一套比较正式的装备，我认为我会弄这个是因为我进去的时候有一个女孩穿着它。这个2010年的视频由田纳西州的姐妹L和Blair Fowler制作，已经获得了超过200万的观看次数。
The two have monetized their YouTube business, turning it into such a success that the budget priced clothes featured in their videos often sell out nearly immediately. In some brands including JC Penny and American Eagle, start paying vloggers with gift cards in exchange for haul videos featuring their merchandise.
这两位已经把他们的YouTube业务变成了极其成功的盈利方式，以至于在他们的视频中展示的低价服装往往会很快售罄。一些品牌包括JC Penny和American Eagle开始用礼品卡支付视频博主，以交换展示他们商品的"大批货"视频。
But the dark side of haul videos is that they're highlighting one of the biggest problems with fast fashion. Many consumers see these low-cost clothes as disposable after a few wears and that has created a PR problem for the industry as alarm about climate change and the environment grows.
然而，展示购物成果的视频也揭示了快时尚最大的问题——这些低成本的服装只穿几次就被看作是可随意丢弃的，这引起了公众对气候变化和环境影响的担忧，进而给这个行业带来了公关问题。
H&M decides to get in front of its image problem. March 25th, 2010, an H&M store in Manhattan. Two twenty-something customers enter the store and begin rummaging through racks. One pauses when she spots something new. Do you see these green tags? I've never seen them before. It says H&M Garden Collection made with sustainable fibers.
H&M决定解决形象问题。2010年3月25日，H&M在曼哈顿的一个商店。两位20多岁的顾客走进店里开始翻找货架。其中一位看到了一些新商品停下了脚步。你看到这些绿色的标签了吗？我以前从来没有见过它们。上面写着H&M花园系列用可持续纤维制成。
The woman holds up a sheer floral dress with ruffles. And this is still only $30? I thought sustainable clothes cost more. Her friend reads the tag. It's made from organic cotton and linen, recycled polyester. This is super cool. It definitely makes me feel better about shopping here. The women grab more items of green tags before heading for the fitting room line.
这位女士拿着一件有褶边的花边薄纱连衣裙，只要30美元？我以为环保衣服会更贵。她的朋友看了标签，这件衣服用有机棉和亚麻、回收聚酯纤维制成，太好了！我在这里购物感觉好多了。两位女性又拿了更多有绿色标签的物品，然后排队去试衣间。
While other brands have offered organic cotton clothing before, that typically comes with an added cost. By incorporating these materials into their usual price point, H&M is breaking new ground. Textile making has long been one of the most polluting industries worldwide, a problem exacerbated by fast fashion brands. But now H&M is trying to hold on to existing customers, accustomed to their low prices, while also pivoting to using better materials. Time will tell whether they can have their cake and eat it too. In 2010, H&M uses 15,000 tons of organic cotton, a 77% increase from the year before.
虽然其他品牌以前已提供过有机棉服装，但通常会增加成本。通过将这些材料纳入其常规价位，H&M正在开创新局面。纺织制造长期以来一直是全球污染最严重的行业之一，这个问题被快速时尚品牌加剧了。但是现在，H&M正在努力保留现有客户，他们习惯了低价格，同时也在转向使用更好的材料。时间会证明他们是否能够同时做到两者。在2010年，H&M使用了15,000吨有机棉，比前一年增加了77％。
And their garden collection appeals to consumers who are becoming more aware of the environmental impact of their clothing purchases. But the company's efforts to appear altruistic will soon take a hit. April 24, 2013. It's 5 a.m. in Sweden and Helena Helmerson's phone is ringing. Gragie, she fumbles for the phone in the nightstand.
他们的花园系列吸引着越来越多关注衣服购买环保影响的消费者。但是，这家公司表现出的利他主义的努力将很快受到打压。2013年4月24日，瑞典时区早上5点，海莲娜·赫尔默松接到了电话。她在床头柜里翻找手机，踉踉跄跄地拿起了电话。
Hello? Carl Johan Persson, her boss, is on the line. There's been an accident, a factory collapse in Sava, Rana Plaza. Helmerson drops her head into her hands. Sava is a suburb of Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh. How bad is it? Over a thousand dead, thousands more injured. They're calling it the deadliest structural failure accident in modern history. Oh, those poor people. Do we have business there? Miraculously no. I've been reassured that no H&M products will be found in the wreckage. But, well, you know how it is. These supply chains are so complicated, even if we didn't work directly with the factory where the biggest exporter of clothing from Bangladesh, I think we need to respond. This is fine to get everyone talking about labor conditions in Bangladesh. We're an industry leader in sustainability, but the media they're going to conflate this accident with our brand.
喂？卡尔·约翰·珀松是她的老板，在电话里。在萨瓦（Sava）的拉纳广场（Rana Plaza）发生了一起工厂坍塌事故。海尔默森把头埋在双手中哭泣。萨瓦是孟加拉国首都达卡的一个郊区。有多糟糕？超过一千人死亡，成千上万人受伤。他们称之为现代史上最严重的结构失效事故。哦，那些可怜的人们。我们在那里有业务吗？奇迹般地没有。我已经得到保证，在废墟中不会发现H&M的任何产品。但是，你知道的，这些供应链是如此复杂，即使我们没有直接与孟加拉国最大的服装出口工厂合作，我认为我们需要做出回应。这很好，可以让所有人谈论孟加拉国的劳工条件。我们是可持续性的行业领袖，但媒体会把这起事故与我们的品牌混为一谈。
Other companies are directly involved. I'm hearing Walmart, the children's place, mango. They should take the brunt of the media storm. There are also rumors that the building's owner built four extra stories that weren't authorized and may have used subpar materials. It's a tragedy on all fronts. But we still have to respond. People will expect answers. And more than that, they'll expect change. She's right.
其他公司也参与其中。我听说沃尔玛、童装集团、芒果等公司都有涉及。这些公司应该承担媒体风暴的重压。还有传言说建筑业主盖了四层未经授权的额外楼层，可能使用了劣质材料。这是一个全方位的悲剧。但我们仍需应对。人们会期望答案。更重要的是，他们会期望变革。她说得对。
In the wake of the tragedy, H&M and 42 other clothing companies, including Zara, sign the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh. This legally binding document consists of a five-year plan to ensure a safe working environment, including independent inspections, new health and safety committees, and training programs to empower workers. H&M also promises to pay its 850,000 workers a fair living wage by the year 2018.
在这场悲剧后，包括Zara在内的H&M及其他42家服装公司签署了《孟加拉国火灾与建筑安全协定》。这份具有法律约束力的文件包括了一项为期五年的计划，旨在确保一个安全的工作环境，包括独立检查、新的健康和安全委员会以及培训计划来赋予工人权利。H&M还承诺在2018年前向其85万名工人支付公平的生活工资。
Workers in Bangladesh earn on average the equivalent of $87 USD per month, which falls below the world poverty line. H&M would need to triple their salaries to achieve a living wage. The company fails to keep its promise. By 2018, independent studies reveal that despite Hilmers inclaiming they've achieved all of their sustainability goals, Bangladesh workers are still living below the poverty line.
在孟加拉国工作的员工平均每月收入相当于87美元，低于世界贫困线。H&M需要将他们的工资翻倍才能达到生活工资的要求。该公司没有兑现承诺。到2018年，独立研究表明尽管Hilmers声称他们已经实现了所有的可持续发展目标，孟加拉国的工人仍然生活在贫困线以下。
And, there's a new player on the scene. An online only brand targeted at teenagers. It is somehow faster and cheaper than any fast fashion brand yet. Meet Jill Evans. Jill's got it all. A big house, fast car, two kids in a great career. But Jill has a problem. When it comes to love, Jill can never seem to get things right. And then along comes Dean. I can't believe my look. Whoa, I hit the jackpot. It looks like they're going to live happily ever after. But on Halloween night, things get a little gruesome. This is where the shooting happened outside a building society in New Romney. It's thought the 42-year-old victim was killed after he opened fire on police. And Jill's life is changed forever.
还有一个新玩家出现了。一个面向青少年的仅在线品牌。它比任何快时尚品牌都要快速和便宜得多。来见见吉尔·埃文斯。吉尔拥有一切。一所大房子，一辆快车，两个在非常好的职业生涯中的孩子。但吉尔有一个问题。当涉及到爱情时，吉尔似乎总是无法把事情做对。然后迪恩出现了。我简直无法相信自己的运气。哇，我中了头彩。看起来他们将要幸福地生活在一起。但在万圣节之夜，事情变得有点可怕。这就是枪击案发生的地方，位于New Romney的一家建筑公司外面。据信，这名42岁的受害者在向警察开枪后被杀害。吉尔的生活永远改变了。
From Wondery and Novel comes Stolen Hearts. A story about a cop who falls in love with a man who is not all he seems to be. Stolen Hearts, wherever you get your podcasts, you could binge the entire series, add free, on Amazon Music. Download the Amazon Music app now.
从Wondery和Novel到来的《被偷走的心》。这是一个有关警察爱上了一个不是他看起来那么简单的男人的故事。《被偷走的心》，你可以在任何你获取你的播客的地方连续收听整个系列，无广告，通过Amazon Music。现在下载Amazon Music应用程序。
2014 Madrid, Spain. Graciella Martín manages a large Zara store in the city center. She looks on as nine of her employees take inventory. Her waving pistol-shaped devices towards racks of clothing, a chorus of near-constant beeps sounds as they make their way through dozens of skirts, dresses, and tops.
2014年，西班牙马德里。格拉西拉·马丁在市中心管理一家大型的Zara店铺。她看着九名员工进行盘点。他们挥舞着手枪形状的设备对着衣架，一串近乎不间断的嗡嗡声响起，他们穿过数十条裙子、连衣裙和上衣。
Martín answers the phone. Zara Madrid. Pablo Isla, the chairman of Zara's parent corporation, is on the line. It's not uncommon for him to personally check up on the brand's biggest stores.
马丁接电话，电话来自扎拉马德里店，扎拉母公司的董事长帕布罗·伊斯拉在电话那头，他经常亲自检查品牌的旗舰店。
I wanted to see how inventories going with the new RFID chips. RFID stands for Radio Frequency Identification. These chips store information about an item and when prompted, send that data via radio signals to a scanner. It's been amazing. Last time it took 40 of us five hours. Today, 10 of us did the same amount of work in half that time. It's a world of difference from having to scan each barcode individually. I'm seeing the info here at headquarters in real time. And since this process is so much easier now, we can do inventory. So much more often than we used to. I'm thinking every six weeks instead of every six months.
我想看看新的RFID芯片存货情况怎么样。RFID代表无线电频率识别。这些芯片储存有关物品的信息，当被提示时，通过无线电信号发送那些数据到扫描器。这太神奇了。上次我们花了40个人五个小时。今天，我们只有10个人，在一半的时间内完成了同样的工作量。这与必须逐个扫描每个条形码的方式大不相同。我正在总部看到实时信息。由于这个过程现在变得如此容易，我们可以进行库存。比我们以前频繁得多。我考虑每六周一次而不是每六个月一次。
So the chips tell us what's selling well and what's not, right?
那么，这些芯片告诉我们什么商品卖得好，什么不卖得好，对吧？
Exactly. It's been great for us with the customers, too. If someone can't find a certain size, we just scan a similar item and we can see where it's available nearby. Or if it's available online.
确实。这对我们与顾客来说非常棒。如果有人找不到某种尺码，我们只需扫描类似的商品，然后就可以看到附近哪里有库存。或者是否在线上有库存。
Zara's been experimenting with this technology for the last seven years. And they landed on putting the chips into the security tags. A move that's let them reuse the chips when the security tag is removed.
Zara已经进行了7年的技术实验。他们最终选择把芯片嵌入安全标签中。这个举措让他们能够在安全标签被移除后重复使用芯片。
I'm glad to hear it's working. And we've also been getting the restock so much faster. Whenever we sell out of something, the data from the chips orders more automatically. Isla knows it's not only making things easier for the employees, but it will also set Zara apart. It will be one of the first companies to use this technology in more than 2,000 of its stores. And it will pay off in a big way. H&M is still the market leader by about $500 million. But Zara's gaining on them. Thanks in part to this technology.
听到它正常运转，我很高兴。而且我们的进货速度也变得更快了。每次卖完某件商品后，芯片自动下订单的数据就会再次进货。伊斯拉知道这不仅简化了员工的工作，而且也将让Zara与众不同。它将成为首批在多达2,000家门店使用这项技术的公司之一。这将带来巨大的好处。H&M目前仍是市场领导者，优势约为5亿美元。但Zara正在缩小差距，其中一部分要归功于这项技术。
But while Zara is focused on streamlining its processes, forever 21 is doubling down on the appeal of cheap prices. May 3rd, 2014. The Azalea Shopping Center near downtown Los Angeles. It's the grand opening of a new store concept called F-21 Red. The 18,000 square foot store located in a densely populated working class neighborhood. Most prices even cheaper than that of a regular forever 21, including camisoles for less than $2 and denim for under $8.
虽然Zara致力于简化其流程，Forever 21则在强调低廉价格的吸引力。2014年5月3日，在洛杉矶市中心附近的Azalea购物中心，一家名为F-21 Red的新概念商店盛大开业。这家占地18,000平方英尺的商店位于一个人口密集的工薪阶层社区，大多数商品的价格甚至比常规Forever 21还要便宜，包括售价不到2美元的吊带和不到8美元的牛仔裤。
Duan Chong stands behind a podium. A large ribbon is set up behind him, ready to be cut after his remarks to the press.
段冲站在一个讲台后面。一个大的丝带被摆在他的后面，准备在他向媒体发表讲话后剪断。
We are very pleased to unveil the first F-21 Red store in the Azalea Shopping Center. With F-21, we are able to deliver greater quantities of the styles our customers seek while maintaining the value with entry-level category price points for every 21 is known for offering.
我们非常高兴地推出了第一家F-21红色店，它位于杜鹃花购物中心。有了F-21，我们可以提供更多顾客想要的款式，并在每个21号人所知道的入门级类别价格上保持价值。
The store quickly becomes popular and the company opens more F-21 Red locations in New York and Minnesota. Things are about to change dramatically. Zara, forever 21, H&M and Topshop are known for fast and cheap, but their newest competitor is about to take those ideas into the stratosphere..
这家商店很快变得很受欢迎，公司在纽约和明尼苏达州开设了更多F-21红色店铺。事情即将发生彻底变化。Zara，Forever 21，H＆M和Topshop以快速和廉价著称，但它们最新的竞争对手即将把这些想法推向更高的层次。
An environmental concerns are not on their to-do list.
他们的待办清单上没有环保问题。
2014, Nanjong, China 30-year-old Chris Shoe is in his office speaking to a potential investor. Two years ago, the American-born Shoe gave up a business selling wedding dresses online to customers in multiple countries and purchased a web domain. Sheinside.com. Since then, he has been using the site to sell ultra cheap women's clothing to a young audience. College students love the prices, which are literally half bad of similar items at Zara or H&M.
2014年，中国南京，30岁的克里斯·肖在他的办公室与一个潜在的投资者交谈。两年前，出生在美国的肖放弃了在多个国家向客户在线销售婚纱的生意，购买了一个网域，Sheinside.com。自那以后，他一直在使用这个网站向年轻观众售卖超便宜的女装。大学生们喜欢这些价格，这些价格实际上只有Zara或H&M类似商品的一半不到。
But so far, it's been a small operation with only about 100 employees. They have zero brick and mortar stores, no in-house design team, and no cell phones supply chain. Instead, they buy all of their inventory from wholesale stores in China and sell directly to customers online.
到目前为止，这是一家规模很小的企业，只有约100名员工。他们没有实体店，没有自己的设计团队，也没有自己的手机供应链。相反，他们从中国的批发商购买所有库存，并直接在线销售给客户。
Shoe leans forward as he gets into the meat of his pitch to the investor. He's ready to take this business model to the next level. The man is soaring, but I think we can do even better, so my plan is to hire designers. And we're going to move our operations center from Guangzhou to Pangyu where the factories are located. We'll have all of our facilities in close proximity. Research and development, logistics, manufacturing, even customer service.
当Shoe向投资者展示商业计划时，他的态度积极且倾向于前进。他准备将这个商业模式推向更高一个层次。他的想法很棒，但我认为我们可以做得更好，所以我的计划是雇佣设计师。我们会将业务中心从广州迁到庞大，这里有许多工厂。我们将拥有所有设施，例如研究和开发、物流、制造，甚至客户服务都在附近。
The investor nods. A similar to what Zara does in Acaruña. Their headquarters are right next to the manufacturing operations. Yes, although we have an advantage over Zara, we don't have any brick and mortar stores draining funds. We'll conquer the European and American markets by selling merchandise produced in China directly to the public. No intermediaries.
投资者点了点头。就像Zara在Acaruña所做的那样。他们的总部就在制造业务旁边。是的，虽然我们比Zara有优势，但我们没有实体店在吸收资金。我们将通过直接向公众销售中国制造的商品来征服欧美市场。没有中间商。
Hmm. That's all very interesting, but I'll admit I'm confused by your background. You have no experience managing supply chain operations. Are you even interested in women's clothing? Shoe is unruffled. My expertise lies in marketing and search engine optimization. That's how I started my career. Working for a company in Nanjing. My company has grown popular because of our online presence. We are at the forefront of social media marketing. We were already advertising on Instagram and Pinterest in 2012, when other brands barely knew those sites existed.
哦，那很有趣，但我必须承认，您的背景让我感到困惑。您没有管理供应链运营的经验。您甚至对女装感兴趣吗？Shoe毫不在意。我的专业是市场营销和搜索引擎优化。那是我职业生涯的起点。我在南京的一家公司工作。由于我们的在线存在，我的公司变得越来越受欢迎。我们处于社交媒体营销的前沿。在2012年，其他品牌几乎不知道Instagram和Pinterest的存在时，我们已经在这些网站上广告了。
But what is a brand's identity? What's the aesthetic? When I see Zara or H&M, I understand what those clothes will look like. They're knockoffs of European high-end fashion and runway copycats. That's sort of thing. We are not trying to create our own aesthetic. We're simply selling popular trends to customers as fast as possible. That's what customers want. They can buy an entire outfit, including shoes and accessories for under $30. No one can compete with that.
但品牌的身份是什么呢？是长相？当我看到扎拉或H&M时，我知道这些衣服会长什么样。他们是欧洲高端时尚的山寨品和时装周的抄袭品。就是这样的。我们不是在试图创建自己的美学。我们只是尽快地向客户销售流行趋势。这就是客户想要的。他们可以花不到30美元购买整套服装，包括鞋子和配饰。没有人能与此竞争。
In 2015, Shoe renames his company simply Shien. A year later, revenue soars to $617 million. But by 2017, they exceed $1.5 billion. The website features an enormous amount of inventory. All produced in small batches of 100 to 500 pieces, reducing risk in case items don't sell well.
在2015年，Shoe把他的公司简称为Shien。一年后，收入飙升至6.17亿美元。但到2017年，他们超过了15亿美元。网站上有大量的库存，所有产品都是以100到500件的小批量生产，以降低在物品销售不佳的情况下带来的风险。
Shoe builds a team of 800 designers and prototypers and hones the supply chain, which consists of many small to mid-sized factories. And because they ship small value packages directly from Chinese warehouses to customers, they're able to get around paying a lot of import and export taxes. Something retailers with many brick and mortar stores can't avoid.
Shoe组建了一个包含800名设计师和原型制作人员的团队，并打磨了供应链，其中包括许多小型到中型工厂。由于他们直接从中国仓库向客户发送小额价值的包裹，因此能够避免付很多进出口税。这是许多实体店铺数量众多的零售商无法避免的。
By 2017, Shien is gaining popularity in the United States, even beginning to appear on daytime talk shows like The Real.
到了2017年，Shien在美国变得越来越受欢迎，甚至开始出现在白天的脱口秀节目《真人秀》上。
Everything you see here today is from She-In dot com in style expert Sheila. Are they here to tell us all about it? She's so excited to be here. It's time to start stocking up on this summer's Must Have Fashions. And I heard that Shien is the ultimate one-stop shop for the modern fashionista who wants to be the first to rock the latest styles. Totally. Whatever the latest fashion trend is, She-In dot com is going to be sure to have it. And it's free shipping. They ship to over 80 countries. Oh wow. No minimum required you guys. Oh wow.
你们今天看到的所有衣服都是来自She-In点com的时尚专家Sheila。她们来这里是为了向我们展示她们的产品。她们非常兴奋能来到这里。现在，是时候开始采购今年夏季必备的时尚单品了。我听说Shien是现代时尚达人的终极一站式购物平台，想第一时间成为最时髦的人就来这里吧。无论最新时尚潮流是什么，She-In点com都会确保有它。而且还有免费送货，他们可以发货到80多个国家。哇哦，这真是太棒了！而且不需要最低消费金额哦，你们一定要去看看。
By the end of the 2010s, Shien, along with fellow ultra-fast fashion brands Aso's and Boo-Hoo, have cemented themselves as a legitimate threat to the brands that dominated the last decade. And experts start predicting that legacy players like H&M, Zara, Forever 21 and Topshop will be crushed by what they call Fast Fashion 2.0.
到了2010年代末期，像Shien一样的快时尚品牌，与同行的Aso's和Boo-Hoo一起，已经巩固了它们对上一个十年统治市场的品牌的合法威胁地位。专家们开始预测，他们所谓的快时尚2.0将会粉碎像H&M、Zara、Forever 21和Topshop这样的老牌品牌。
But these brands aren't going to take that lying down. In our next episode, Shien continues to make moves while H&M and Forever 21 fall upon hard times. And the bell tolls for Philip Green of Topshop when unsavory accusations against him turn the public against the company.
但这些品牌不会束手待毙。在下一集中，Shien继续采取行动，而H&M和Forever 21则陷入困境。当不良指控引起公众对公司不满时，Topshop的Philip Green的命运也将到来。
Stay prime members, you can binge every episode of Business Wars, Add Free on Amazon Music. Download the Amazon Music app today. Or you can listen Add Free with Wondery Plus in Apple Podcasts..
作为Prime会员，你可以畅听Amazon Music上的《商业大战》每一集，无需广告打扰。立即下载Amazon Music应用程序。或者你也可以在Apple Podcasts上使用Wondery Plus免费收听。
Before you go, tell us about yourself by completing a short survey at Wondery.com-survey.
在你离开之前，请通过在Wondery.com-survey上完成一份简短的调查告诉我们有关你自己的信息。
From Wondery, this is episode three of Fast Fashion for Business Wars. A quick note about recreations you've been hearing in most cases we can't know exactly what was said at the time, those scenes are dramatizations, but they're based on historical research.
来自Wondery，这是《商业战争中的快时尚》的第三集。需要说明的是，你听到的大部分再现场景我们无法确切地知道当时说了什么，它们是戏剧化描述，但是它们基于历史研究。
I'm your host David Brown. Aaron Conley wrote this story, voice acting by Michelle Philippi, Jennifer Sunbell, Will Choi, and Stephen Foo. Karen Lo is our senior producer and editor, edited and produced by Emily Frost, sound designed by Kyle Randall. Our associate producer is Kate Young. Our producer is Dave Schellen.
大家好，我是您的主持人 David Brown。这个故事是由 Aaron Conley 编写的，声音演员包括 Michelle Philippi、Jennifer Sunbell、Will Choi 和 Stephen Foo。我们的高级制片人和编辑是 Karen Lo，编审和制作人员是 Emily Frost，声音设计是 Kyle Randall。我们的副制片人是 Kate Young，制片人是 Dave Schellen。
Our executive producers are Jenny Lauer Beckman and Marshall Lui, created by Ernan Lopez. We're Wondery.
我们的执行制片人是詹妮·劳尔·贝克曼和马歇尔·刘，由厄南·洛佩兹创造。我们来自Wondery。